April Showers Bring April Corvid-19 Unlocked-down Moto Tours…

It began as it had for the previous four weeks with a text to Pete on Tuesday April 28, 2020, “So, up for a ride? Tomorrow? Thursday?”  

Pete’s terse response, “Thursday”.  

It’s kind of like fishing.  I toss a small bit of bait out by way of text and wait for a nibble.  I reply to Pete, “Okie Dokie…  Thinking about heading up into the higher elevations.”  

Blanchard Rd to Marshes Flat Rd not yet baked golden by summer’s heat

We’ve been getting out, beyond the confines of our homes and dog walks about our respective neighborhoods, in a series of semi-spontaneous “neighborhood” moto tours in this new age of sheltering, social distancing, mask wearing, and sanitizing, all in an effort to avoid the Coronavirus plague while maintaining our sanity and only slightly and with no malice or virus, veering just a bit from the California Coronavirus (COVID-19) Response webpage regarding recreation: “You can walk, run, hike and bike in your local neighborhoods as long as they continue to practice social distancing of 6 feet. This means avoiding crowded trails & parking lots. Californians should not travel significant distances and should stay close to home.” 

With no disrespect for those whose suffering is real, accustomed to unfettered retirement freedom, these restrictions on exercise and travel have been a challenge for my gaggle of sorta-fit retired adventure seeking pals.  Especially since the moto “gang” (see my post Riding Under a Fool Moon) had to cancel our five-day spring trip scheduled to depart on April 8, 2020 to the Mojave when state parks and businesses were suddenly shuttered as we awoke to the reality of the plague.

From Ken Layne, The Desert Oracle, whose spring  photos from the vicinity of Joshua Tree are what inspired us and what we missed! Check out The Desert Oracle podcast: https://www.desertoracle.com/radio/.

So we have interpreted staying close to home to mean one day rides with no stopping for commerce (except to purchase fuel), practicing hyper-social distancing, though there are only two of us, and using sanitizers as necessary.  A motorcycle helmet paired with a kerchief is perhaps equally protective from receiving or transmitting a virus. At the conclusion of the ride, all gear is treated and my bike has never looked as clean.

Wednesday rolls around with no reaction from Pete.  I text out a bit more bait, “Que hora manana?” and Pete replies with another terse response, “8:00 Chevron”

My thumbs up emoji in response gets one right back from Pete.  Two thumbs up and the ride is on, sort of an homage to “two hits and the joint turned brown,” perhaps how we may have dealt with these challenges of existential threat in our youth… These days we hoist a Corona, in lieu of bleach, to toast the defeat of the virus!

Corona with lime, yes. Clorox, uh, with or without lime, no…

On Thursday morning at 8:00 a.m. we met at the Chevron on Yosemite and “G” with no particular plan as thus far our Covid-19 Tours have been meticulously planned because I suffer from OMD, obsessive map disorder.  I said they were semi-spontaneous, right?  Planned insofar as I’ve been sheltering at home and with hours to while away and what better enterprise than to meticuolously plan motorcycle escapes.  This would be our fourth “local” ride since Governor Newsom imposed the statewide “lockdown” or “stay at home” orders in California.  

And with that preview, the following are brief descriptions of the trips with maps and directions, and a few visuals for your enjoyment. You’re welcome. The first three were put together prior to riding and the last ride I pieced together after the fact.  Note:  Every ride I take I think about how I need to photograph more of the ride, namely the bikes and scenery, the visuals part.  Afterall, who wants to look at a couple of squinting geezers out playing like a couple of kids…

Covid-19 Moto Tour #I to West Point, CA ±226 miles

Our first trip on April 2nd was a backroads trip over familiar roads with a couple of new avenues to San Andreas and West Point, returning through Copperopolis to our home in Merced.  Since the five day trip to the Mojave was cancelled, we figured (okay maybe we rationalized) a day trip through sparsely populated rural areas with stops only for fuel and to stretch, as we brought along snacks and water to enjoy while social distancing and of course hand-sanitizing, what could be the harm? 

Note we appear to be the only souls in West Point.  And we’re at least 12 feet apart.

Google Map of Tour #1

A note about Google Maps… It seems that the fine folks who code for Google Maps have decided that when you plot a route, save the URL to embed to give others access to your route, and link the route, as you designed it for use in a blog intending to share the exact route, the map randomly reverts back to what some algorithm directs is a more time saving route over busy roads that are uninteresting to this motoist author, <IMHO>.

The first leg of our route took us over rolling hill county roads we often ride bicycles on through orchards, vineyards, rangeland, and a dairy or two along Keys, Olsen, and Los Cerritos Roads while crossing the Merced and Tuolumne Rivers.  

Dry Creek expressing irony

That’s Dry Creek from just off Keyes Rd above.  As you might infer, it might just as well be called Wet Creek this time of year.  Okay, so photographic failure #1: squinting geezer with moto in background instead of foreground (top), and photo-fail #2, moto should be in the foreground of the scenery. I did, however, avoid the squinting geezer.

The ferry is now a covered bridge and a very nice one at that

We crossed the Tuolumne on the Robert’s Ferry Covered Bridge where you can stop, though the new Roberts Ferry Bridge isn’t historical, it replaced the original bridge built in 1916 but it still commemorates the regional history. A short historical walk down each side of the bridge features a series of interpretive markers, each telling the region’s story. The whole tale is there, from the Native Americans who first called the land home, to Robert’s heyday, to the fertile farmlands of Stanislaus County today.

Continuing on Crabtree Rd to Williams Rd you arrive in Knight’s Ferry. We took Sonora Rd north, spanning the Stanislaus River but just a short distance upriver from the modern Sonora Road bridge you come across the Knight’s Ferry Covered Bridge. This is an historical bridge. It is almost 379 feet (116 m) long, with a total of four spans set on stone abutments and piers. In addition to spanning the river, the bridge crosses a historic millrace north of the river. The bridge sections consist of Howe trusses formed out of wooden planks bolted together, with wrought iron tension rods, all joined by wrought iron bearing blocks. The exterior of the bridge is finished in vertical board siding, with a metal roof. So, make the turn north on Shuper Rd, just before the Sonora Rd turn and you will find the Knight’s Ferry Bridge. (Wiki)

The Knight’s Ferry Bridge is a historic covered bridge spanning the Stanislaus River at Knights Ferry, California. Built in 1863, it is one of the best-preserved 19th-century wood-iron Howe truss bridges to survive.

An interesting part of that ride aside from the terrain and landscape was how effectively the stay-at-home orders reduced traffic on the lowland county roads as they were largely deserted save the usual ranch/farm traffic. E Sonora Rd and Milton Rd to Jenny Lind were a bit more active. But stay-at-home didn’t seem to affect traffic as much on Hwy 26 to Valley Springs and Hwy 12 to San Andreas. Rejoining the busy Hwy 49 in Mokelumne Hill, traffic seemed normal for a weekday. Traffic tapered again on Hwy 26 up to West Point.  The one/two-lainers, Railroad Flat Rd and Mountain Ranch Rd, back to San Andreas were pretty vacant.

The verdant spring grasses and wildflowers were a visual feast. We took Pool Station Rd back to Hwy 4 and Copperopolis where the traffic was equal to that on Hwy 49. O’Byrnes Ferry Rd skirted Lake Tulloch to Hwy 120. Hwy 120 to J-59, La Grange, Snelling, and home.

Hill folk live in the hills for many reasons and I suspect chief among them is to live free of the hustle and bustle of towns and cities.

This is how Humphrey Bogart socially distanced in the hills of the Sierra Madres.

Since most of the roads we take, regardless of a pandemic, are rural, through sparsely populated areas, unless you consider the population of cows, there was still little activity at the street level at most of our stops in the little towns we rolled through.  At times, we almost felt as though we were trespassing. Riding without distractions of country road traffic and yet always aware of various other road hazards like potholes and guinea and pea fowl, kept us on the bikes with little urge to stop and take photos having traversed these quaint gold country roads for so many years.  I’ve listed the roads and you have a map so if you like, you can take the tour and your very own photos. Just don’t linger around too much. You never know when you may be ask to show your badge…

Disclaimer: The clip from Treasure of the Sierra Madre isn’t intended to disparage people of Hispanic descent or hill people. It’s a joke, based on a classic Humphrey Bogart film directed by John Huston, illustrating the lengths to which the characters in the 1948 film wished to distance themselves from one another the result of another pan-demic, gold fever! Having taken the edge off of my attempt at Covid humor, I’m not going to explain the pun.

Covid-19 Moto Tour #II to Coalinga, CA ±275 miles

A fine example of Pete’s artistic expression

The next trip on April 16 took us again over familiar and novel roads* to Coalinga via Panoche Rd to Paicines, Hwy 25 to Coalinga Rd, then Hwy 33 back home.

Google Map for Tour #2   

Bikes foreground, scenery background, no squinting geezers… Check!

Sadly, our traditional burrito breakfast at the Paicines Store was foregone in observance of the plague.  This was just a “stretch” stop after the 18 miles of twists and turns of Old Panoche Rd.  We have in the past had to head north a few miles to Tres Pinos for fuel when heading down Hwy 25 on previous trips when Pete was traveling on his volume challenged Bonneville T-120 gas tank.  Confident that our 5.5 gallon tanks on the Kawasaki Versys 650 and Suzuki V-Strom 650 could get us all the way to Coalinga from Merced, we headed south on Hwy 25, aka the Airline Highway, via the Coalinga Rd to where else ?  All the while, *novel virus free.  

I have often wondered why the stretch of Hwy 25 is also known as the “Airline Highway”

Airline Highway AKA CA SR-25

Now we will all know: “The Airline Highway Association was organized in 1933-34 and was composed of representatives of Alameda, Santa Clara, San Benito, Kern and Kings Counties. Its purpose was to establish this “Airline Highway”.

In the Oakland Tribune article, (Tues. June 19, 1934 page 5. “NEW AIRLINE, HIGHWAY TO L.A. PLANNED”) it states “the highway would follow the air line between the northern and southern part of the state as closely as possible”. The use of the word Airline is confusing as we associate it with modern-day transportation. In this sense it is defined as an Americanism dating back to 1805 meaning “traveling a direct route”. (Wiki)

I’ve been experimenting with a GoPro 7 trying to figure out the best way to mount the camera and capture interesting video.  Well, maybe not as interesting as Jamie Robinson’s MotoGeo videos on YouTube or any of the other thousands of talented and dedicated moto-vlogers, but illustrative of the essence of why I love to ride a motorcycle.  At least Jamie and I have that in common. 

Besides filming. editing video is something of a challenge for this old dog, but I’m slowly learning new tricks.  I whittled two hours of video into the following 30 minute unnarrated clip featuring Panoche Roads (New and Old) and Coalinga Rd.  To the uninitiated, it might appear monotonous. To the smitten, eat your heart out…

Remember, Jamie Robinson I’m not, but I don’t just sit on my porch in a rocker
whittling a stick.
I have never encountered an Uber moment on my Kawasaki. Maybe it’s the Ducati?

Sparing your having to read a list of roads, you can just sit back and enjoy the ride.  Hint, these back roads took us to our destination and fuel with only slight pucker fatigue as empty fuel warning lights began blinking at least 30 miles from Coalinga. The flashing light does a good job of keeping your thoughts trending on how to deal with running out of fuel with no signs of civilization on a road much less traveled by plague reduced traffic. I have determined that when the Kawasaki’s fuel warning light comes on and the fuel range indicator showing 30 miles til empty disappears, I have roughly 1 gallon of gas remaining. If the average miles/per/gallon indicator is accurate, I have at least 58 miles, okay, maybe 50, remaining before empty. Therefore when the fuel light comes on I have at least 80 miles of fuel. There was no measure of conciliation in the number of oil rigs that began showing up sporadically in the last 15 miles into Coalinga.

Oil, oil everywhere, but not a drop refined enough to pump…

We arrived in Coalinga and our first stop was a Chevron station on Hwy 33.  Topping off our nearly empty tanks, we reflected and gave our thanks for the dinosaures whose sacrifices made our combustion engines possible. Speaking of dinosaurs (ouch!), we serendipitously met a friendly group on a variety of HD baggers and a Spyder who were affiliated with the ROMPs group from home.  Like us, they were out for the day, perhaps attracted to Coalinga by the aroma of tri-tip grilling. A friendly group who seemed to be practicing social distancing… Or maybe they just though us to be peculiar on our modest touring Japanese motos.

There is the beef. Where are the bikes?

The ramble home was uneventful.  Mostly “airline” roads, Hwy 33 through Westside farming communities of Three Rocks, Mendota, and Firebaugh.  We passed by Harris Farms Horse Division on the Coalinga-Mendota/South Derrick Ave frontage to the Westside Freeway/Hwy-33/I-5. It appears that naming roads in the region is ripe with redundancy. This ranch is where the Harris Farms training track, an immaculately groomed 7/8-mile facility, is located along with the breeding shed that is the home of “world class stallions and Grade I sires claiming an annual conception rate hovering above 90%”.  Hmmm, I wonder what the attempts at bat number might be…  And you thought the only Harris Farms interprise was the resturant and stinky feed lot along I-5.

I remember being introduced to the sport of thoroughbred racing at the training track by a gentleman with whom I worked a couple of summers in the early 80’s as a field rep during the tomato harvest for Tri-Valley Growers Cooperative as a summer job supplementing my elementary teaching gig.  Jim, who worked as a dispatcher for one of the trucking firms hauling tomatoes, was a connoisseur of tracks, county fairs, and racing forms. He attempted to explain to this greenhorn the nuances and subtleties of how to evaluate a horse and the art of wagering respectively.  Of course this was all wasted on me.  I was trying to deal with wazillionaire westside growers who were never satisfied with the news I delivered about how at the peak of the harvest our canneries couldn’t take their excess production from the more lucrative spot market buyers who were refusing them.  You can’t squeeze another tomato into a cannery that’s at capacity I tried to reason.  It’s a little unnerving to have a pistol wielding ranch supervisor threaten one about “sending” a message to my supervisor.  Especially since I was on summer vacation from my fourth-graders. Needless to say, I never developed a passion for horse racing nor am I a big fan of industrial grade agriculture.  This despite the gift of an apologetic Harris Farms sweatshirt and fifth of bourbon following the incident. That’s why we buy most of our fresh seasonal produce from Yang’s, a local Hmong farm/stand.  I since went on to teach middle school kids. I could probably have handled the posturing of that incensed supervisor if I knew then what I now know these days…

The rest of the ride home on Hwys 33, 152, and 59 was it’s usual windscreen-bug-splatter-art producing commute, however, with a little less traffic.

Covid-19 Moto Tour III to Bass Lake, CA  ±169 miles

A week later on Friday, April 24th, we rolled to Bass Lake over many familiar roads but with a rearrangement of segments and directions making it a semi-new ride.  That’s the beauty of two wheels.  You face forward peering into the future, a future that may hold any number of road conditions, migrating animals, unfocused motorists, or errors in judgement distracted by splendid scenery, any one of which just might end an otherwise beautiful day’s ride permanently. The pitch of the landscape changes on the return trip creating a new future only slightly associated with rolling over the very same of the recent past.  Curves with mountain sides to the right and precipices on the left are now curves with precipices on right and a mountain sides on the left.  Eyes remain keenly focused for any sign of the aforementioned hazards or distractions as well, even though it’s an out and back only traversed minutes before.  If it’s a loop ride then only the future lies ahead.

Google Map Link for Tour #3

Sadly, as you can see, this photo features yet another photo-fail.  The scenery and moto are secondary, overwhelmed by the grizzled photo bombing geezer.  At least you can’t see the squinting eyes masked by the glasses. Willow Creek that empties into Bass Lake in the background was the star of the photo.  More of the motorcycle in the foreground with more of the starring background scenery (and none of the geezer) would have garnered the supporting actor honors for the bike.  

I don’t know what possesses me to take a selfie when I know that in viewing the photos later I’m profoundly disappointed.  Especially when that selfie is the only photo either you or your partner Pete took to commemorate the ride… Did I mention I’m no Jamie Robinson?

On this ride our route took us from Merced East on Hwy 140 to Agua Fria with a right turn onto Yaqui Gulch Rd to Buckeye and Ben Hur Rds to Mormon Bar where we jumped on Hwy 49 through Bootjack, Nipinnawasee, Ahwahnee to Oakhurst. Road construction and bumper to bumper traffic on the very busy Hwy 41 that bisects Oakhurst found us taking Crane Valley Rd to The Forks on Bass Lake. We whipped around the lake on Rd 222 to North Shore Road to check on Pete’s partner Cheryl’s recently sold cabin and returned by way of Rd 222 and 221 to North Fork Rd, Finegold and O’Neals. Bombing down Hwy 41 we turned west on Hwy 145 to Rd 400 taking us along the southern shore of Hensley Lake that looked pretty empty for this time of year. Road 603 through Daulton, Rd 29 and Ave 26 back to Santa Fe Ave got us to Le Grand where our bicycle zig zag on E Savana, S Burchell Ave past Jay’s to Childs Ave, Planada, then Plainsburg Road to South Bear Creek drive (not far from where SoBe found me) took us home.

SoBe, Sisyphus’s associate named for South Bear Creek (and not tea), where it was love at first sight. But that’s another story…

Covid-19 Moto Tour IV to Pinecrest Lake, the Clavey and Tuolumne Rivers ±248 Miles

That brings us to where this installment all began back on Thursday, April 30.  On the spot, after fueling up at the Chevron, getting a shocked expression from Pete that I had formulated no explicit plan with step-by-step Google directions, I suggested we go up to the Donnell Lake Vista or Dardanelle on Hwy 108 near where Hwy 108 over Sonora Pass is closed for the winter.  Mind you I was in my mesh gear because we were experiencing something of a heat wave (temps in the 90’s) in the Valley and I only had a t-shirt as my base layer and shorts under the armored mesh pants.  

Pete’s wheels began turning as we tossed about a route to take since his catalogue of the local “backroads” has been honed over some 50 or so years riding motorcycles.  We agreed on a route that would avoid most of the highways even though, because of stay-at-home orders, traffic was considerably reduced. We simply prefer back road touring.  There’s a purity or authenticity to the experience when you can ramble through an area or region away from the monotony of the slab and cookie-cutter boulavards lined not by repetitively interchangeable chain stores and eateries, but interesting “natural” landscapes.  Not much is natural about rows of almond trees or cows on pasture but it has an aesthetic value superior to strip malls <IMHO>. That is not to say I don’t enjoy the convenience of shopping centers or an occasional burger at In and Out, or tacos from Ramon’s or M&D, it’s just that battling traffic doesn’t enhance the motorcycle experience, <again, IMHO>.  

Google Map Link Tour #4

The trip took us through the foothills into the Sierra above Sonora on back roads including Algerine-Wards Ferry Rd to Tuolumne Rd past Black Oak Casino, closed due to the Covid-19 pandemic. I guess even casinos aren’t willing to gamble by permitting their Social Security slot playing patrons to mingle in the confines of the 50,000 square-foot gaming floor with 11,000 square-feet, smoke free. I wonder what the odds are on dying from smoking related diseases compared to death from Covid-19. I suspect the timeline is a factor and that the casinos have calculated there to be limited liability…

I know. The May rides will be better. More moto and scenery, less squint and repetitive video. Left to right, Marsh’s Flat (again), dual selfies at Marsh’s Flat and Pinecrest Lake.

We took the Kelley Grade portion of Marshes Flat down to Moccasin and west on Hwy 49 to Jacksonville Rd where we headed north to Stent Cut-Off Rd (wait, doesn’t a stent increase flow?) to a lovely wooded country Algerine Rd that became Algerine/Wards Ferry Rd popular with the bicycling crowd. More twists and turns on Wards Ferry Rd north to Tuolumne past the aforementioned Black Oak Casino to Hwy 108 and Pinecrest Lake which was “closed” except we were able to ride up to the lake as roads through the community of cabins allowed us to access Pinecrest Lake road. A stretch, walk down to the lake, and some snacks from our top boxes allowed my fingers, numb from the cold, to restore feeling.

Pinecrest Lake, not yet filled for the summer season

The turnoff to Pinecrest Lake also includes Dodge Ridge Rd where the ski resort, our family’s favorite, is buttoned up for the summer.

I’m not sure what the winter geezer rules are for photos…

We decided to forego gaining more elevation as the temperatures were dropping pretty quickly from Cold Springs so we reversed our course and headed back down Hwy 108 for the town of Tuolumne where we then headed east in the direction of Cherry Lake by way of Buchanan Rd/Forest Route 1N01. The road is well paved and is filled with superb twists and turns down to the grand Clavey and Tuolumne Rivers in fine spring runoff form.

Pete is preparing to take a photo of the Clavey River so since it’s a picture taken of him, and so it isn’t a selfie and there is a moto in the foreground. The photo on the right is self-captioned. In chalk.

Technically, this isn’t a selfie.  Part of the moto is in the foreground and the scenery is stunning, the Clavey in splendid spring runoff 
A shadow of a mirror and handle bar in the lower right corner, sort of qualifying as a moto in the foreground, featuring the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne.

The photo above is a view of the Rim Fire burn scar taken from Cherry Lake Rd above the Tuolumne River Canyon. The fire started on August 17, 2013, during the 2013 California wildfire season and grew to be (at the time) the third-largest wildfire in California’s history having burned 257,314 acres.

This is our son Derek igniting a backfire when he worked the Rim Fire with CalFire

The inferno was caused by a hunter’s illegal fire that got out of control and it was named for its proximity to the Rim of the World vista point, a scenic overlook on Highway 120 leading up to Yosemite.

Chamise (Adenostoma fasciculatum) was in abundance along with a number of other native wildflowers (excluding the invasive Scotch broom front left) covering the burned hillsides of the Tuolumne River canyon and the fragrance that afternoon was intoxicating. Unfortunately chamise is oily and highly flammable as the season wears on and conditions dry. On the other hand, it is an excellent plant to stabilize the fire ravaged hill sides. It’s just like nature to giveth and taketh away…

Speaking about “taketh-ing” away, back on Hwy 120 from Cherry Lake Rd to our turnoff, the return ride made its way past the Dead Toenail curve near the intersections of Smith Station and Greeley Hill Roads about 8 miles north of Coulterville without incident.  It seems we have exorcised the bad juju from that curve that was earlier referred to (never again to be mentioned) in my Riding Under A Fool Moon post. Did I mention that earlier?

Does a semi-selfie count? At least I’ve spared you the squinting

Pete’s expression pretty much summarizes what he’s anticipating I will eventually write about the ride. After a brief stop in Coulterville, again practicing social distancing, we avoided stopping at the Coulterville Cafe and General Store for our usual ice cream bar and stimulating coffee beverage. After a brief stretch, we made our way home on the usual roads reinvigorated having gotten out of the house for a couple of hours doing what we love.

Stay tuned for May’s rides as loosening restrictions may make for an overnighter.   Until then, stay safe all!

 

2024 Seeking Refuge on a Fall Ramble to Utah

The journey details motorcycle travel in California and the Southwest, highlighting seasonal weather patterns, cultural observations, and personal reflections on commercialization versus natural beauty during a scenic adventure to Zion National Park.

Reconciling expectations with reality

With Abbey’s admonition to seek refuge in the desert, it seems to me that best time to travel by motorcycle on secondary “Butler G1-3” or “Lost Highway” roads in arid California and the Western US depends on the direction you’re heading. We live in California’s Central Valley in Merced which has a fairly predictable climate – hot summers, temperate and windy springs, warm dusty falls, and cold, sometimes foggy, wet winters. Though the weather can be unpredictable, weather forecasts are quite accurate, with NOAA reporting a 7-day forecast is 80% accurate and a 5-day forecast is 90% accurate.

If you’re traveling south towards the Mojave Desert, the winter, early spring, or late fall weather is generally more appealing keeping in mind that this region experienced record-breaking 100+ degree days during the summer of 2024.

Heading east across the central Sierra Nevada passes like Sherman, Tioga, Monitor, Ebbetts, and Carson, are typically closed by the first snows as early as late October and don’t reopen until around Memorial Day in May. That leaves the summer months of June through September as the prime window for snow-free roadways in these areas. However, crossing the western foothills to get to those passes can still be quite hot during the summer months, and once you cross over into the high desert and Basin and Range regions of Nevada, the heat can be uncomfortable as well. Fortunately, the southern Sierra Tehachapi and Walker passes provide access to the Mojave year round whether the weather is hot or cold.

Map of the West and Southwest

Traveling north presents similar weather uncertainties. The summer monsoons that have brought more frequent and severe downpours to the Southwest and Pacific Western states in recent years can impact northern routes as well.
While winter weather is generally cooler the farther inland and north you go, the smaller state highway mountain are more likely to close as resources are prioritized for keeping major interstates open. Mustn’t we forget wintertime atmospheric rivers that can inundate parts of the Pacific Coast and far inland. For northern trips, the best bet is generally to travel in the early summer, before the peak heat of July and August sets in across the region.

Sierra Mountain Passes Map

Regardless of the time of year, it can be tricky to pick the “perfect” 10-day or longer window to ramble the region on a motorcycle. But with confidence in the 7-day forecasts, you can plan accordingly. That’s how you chose your 2024 Seeking Refuge on a Fall Ramble to Utah, – trusting the weather predictions to guide your route and timing.

Off to Mukuntuweap 

Photo: NPS/Jason Burton sort of looks like the Paiute shrine of the half peace sign 
with the ectopic middle digit just to the right

After finalizing our travel plans for a late October ramble, Pete, Sisyphus’s Chief Associate, and I settled on a south-easterly route – heading over Tioga Pass, down the Eastern Sierra, across the Mojave to southwestern Arizona, then north to southern Utah and back west through Death Valley. Our destination for this trip: Zion National Park.

Zion, as it’s known today, was originally called “Mukuntuweap” by the local Paiute people, meaning “straight canyon.” This name was later co-opted by Mormon pioneers who settled the area, just as the Mariposa Battalion had appropriated the name “Yosemite” a century earlier based on the original name given the valley by its Southern Miwok inhabitants. While “Yosemite” at least bears some resemblance to the native “Yos.s.e’meti,” the transition from “Mukuntuweap” to “Zion” feels like a blatant act of cultural erasure. It’s a sobering reminder of how Manifest Destiny has stamped its mark across the western landscape.

For Pete and I, seeking “sanctuary” or “refuge” in Utah seemed a reasonable goal, unlike and with respect to, the preceding generations of indigenous peoples who were displaced from these lands. With confidence in the 7-day weather forecasts, we felt we could time our journey to maximize the chances of favorable conditions. Despite the troubling origins of the name “Zion,” the park remains a place of spectacular natural beauty that has drawn visitors for generations, and we looked forward to experiencing its grandeur and serenity once again. 

 Well, as we found the grandeur, grand, serenity was a bit more problematic.

Day 1, October 22, 2024 – Merced to Red Rock Canyon State Park

Ready to roll with the awkwardly obligatory send-off photos

Merced to Red Rock Canyon State Park

No longer requiring a reservation to cross the Sierra Nevada via Tioga Pass (CA-120), we set off from our usual starting point, the Chevron station on G St. and Yosemite Pkwy in Merced. The commuters heading west on CA-140 left the eastbound lanes clear until we descended into the Merced River canyon, where Yosemite-bound commuters flew past us on the brief broken yellow straightaways to which they’ve grown accustomed to passing the more leisurely traveler.

Once we entered Yosemite National Park, making our way up to Tuolumne Meadows was a generally tranquil, unhurried experience. Crossing Tioga Pass itself was pleasant, though a bit chilly. Fortunately, the traffic was not as bad as it can be, reduced to a post-Labor Day crawl that made the descent into Lee Vining a civil affair under multiple layers of warmth and heated grips.

The rip down US-395 at 75ish mph was brisk but not so fast that the landscape became a blur. We stopped in Lone Pine for a late lunch (or “linner”) at the Bonanza Mexican Restaurant, then procured our “3-R” beverages (rehydration, recovery, and refreshment) across the street at the Lone Pine Market, since our intended campsite for the night was rather remote.  A 353 mile day and we were home for the night.

Tuesday afternoon…

Tuesday evening…

Ghostly hoodoos and the summer triangle vertices of Altair, Deneb, and Vega, each of which is the brightest star of its constellation (Aquila, Cygnus, and Lyra, respectively)

Wednesday morning…

Day 2, October 23, 2024 – Red Rock Canyon State Park to Parker, Arizona

Red Rock Canyon State Park to Parker

When planning our route, there’s always room for a bit of improvisation (hint: foreshadowing). Given that my riding partner Pete had traveled through the area earlier in the spring, we opted to avoid the slog down US-395 through the ever expanding exurb of Adelanto and instead made our way to Joshua Tree, by way of Barstow and CA-247 through Lucerne and Yucca Valleys, for lunch. Though longer than the more customary route on US-395, the Old Woman Springs Rd, proved to be a wise decision as it set us up for what would be our warmest day yet, crossing the Mojave on CA-62 and entering the sagebrush and saguaro of the Sonoran Desert en route to Parker, Arizona on a 298 mile day.

East of Twentynine Palms, we found ourselves on what is best described as a lonesome desert road. At the intersection of CA-62 and US-95 at Vidal Junction, we stopped for some “nalgas relief” (Spanish for “ass relief”) and a refreshing agua fria. There, we met a friendly woman trucker hauling produce from Fresno eastward who commented, having witnessed our pained expressions as we dismounted our motos, that our sore backsides were likely just as weary as hers. I imagine her air-conditioned cab compensated of any nalgas disorders…

Dry eyes and weary nalgas, at least there was shade

The remainder of the CA-62 stretch from Vidal Junction to Parker, Arizona, in 95-degree heat, did little to relieve our “nalgas,” now feeling worse for wear. But as soon as we crossed the Colorado River, we knew we had entered at least a new time zone – both literally and figuratively.

Finding the right accommodations is always an adventure on our moto tours. While I had previously stayed at the venerable Burro Jim Motel back in 1996. Burro Jim was another 84 miles down the road and so since it’s generally not advisable to ride a motorcycle through the desert in near 100 degree heat for nearly 400 miles, instead, we opted for the Budget Inn in the heart of Parker. In hindsight, I should have checked my old bicycle trip itinerary, as the Kofa Inn may have been the better choice. Alas, the Budget Inn, while functional, definitely lacked the neon “colorful funkiness” of the Kofa, it has fared better than the Burro Jim.

After a recommendation by our friendly host we enjoyed another satisfying meal at the Tierra Caliente Meat Market followed by an excursion to the Terrible Herbst Convenience Store

Our camera shy host and Pete, resting motos, and poolside relaxation, rehydrattion, and reflection in Parker, AZ

We exchanged pleasantries with a fellow who had his ski boat engine apart in the motel parking lot who assured us the boat would be ready for the weekend on the Colorado River.  We then retreated poolside, as close to the Colorado we would get that evening, at the motel for some much-needed relaxation, rehydration, and reflection on the day’s journey.

Day 3, October 24, 2024 – Parker to Aguila and Camp Verde, AZ

Parker to Camp Verde

As noted, back in 1996 I was part of a group that rode bicycles across Arizona. The first day of that journey took us from Parker to Aguila, with a planned stay at the aforementioned Burro Jim Motel. The riding itinerary described the terrain as “flat and fast with some gentle rolling sections – a scorching paceline.” “Scorching” as the average high temperature in Parker that August of the ride was a blistering 106.7°F.

Wanting to avoid that same searing heat, Pete and I departed Parker early on this October morning. Our first stop was in Aguila, AZ for breakfast. As I reminisced, our 1996 ride had coincided with the famous Race Across America (RAAM) ultra-cycling event. Upon awakening early, before sunrise to beat the August heat, we heard music blaring from afar.  We witnessed a slow moving RV approach the motel, its headlights augmented to brilliantly illuminate the road for some distance ahead.  Lo and behold, a solitary cyclist was riding on AZ-60, the RV in support for a competitor riding the RAAM.  None of our crew were aware of the RAAM taking place.In fact, we later managed to “photobomb” the RAAM coverage as we climbed the “extreme” grades on Highways 71 and 89 near Prescott.

The Coyote Cafe and the Burro Jim; It doesn’t look like “all new interiors” are due any time soon…

Fueled by another fine Mexican meal at the Coyote Cafe, we set out for Camp Verde, a journey of some 221 miles. The AZ-72 to US-60 route sliced through the Sonoran Desert, the flat, arid landscape seemingly disappearing into the distant horizon. But as we approached Yarnell, mountains appeared to leap from the otherwise flat terrain. Alas, a few miles north of Congress, AZ we entered the Granite Mountains near where on June 30, 2013, nineteen of the 20 members of the Granite Mountain Hotshots, an elite crew trained to fight wilderness fires, died as they battled a fire outside of Yarnell. The nearby Granite Mountain Hotshots Memorial State Park is dedicated to their sacrifice.  My awareness of this tragedy is in part the result of my two sons who are firefighters.  

To bypass the final “extreme” grades, we took Kirkland Valley and Iron Springs Roads at Kirkland Junction, before rejoining AZ-89A later north of Prescott. This stretch provided some enjoyable twisties, with two, two-up rented Harleys mounted by two couples from Indiana leading the way to a scenic overlook just outside of Jerome.

There’s the Mogollan Rimin the distance just over my left shoulder defining the western edge of the Colorado Plateau

This former mountain mining community of Jerome had earned the nickname “The Wickedest Town in the West” during its heyday, when rich copper ore deposits attracted miners, merchants, madams and more to Yavapai County. Jerome’s colorful history is too rich to chronicle here, but a quick link to the Wikipedia page (Jerome, Arizona) provides interesting insight into how this town evolved from a mineral extraction hub to a modern tourist destination.

With the day’s riding behind us, we rolled into Camp Verde, ready to unwind and recharge for the next leg of our adventure. Our first stop was to scout the USFS Clear Creek Campground – a grassy, flat site with shade provided by tall cottonwoods. Perfect. Despite the slightly creepy gravel road leading in, our gracious campground host recommended we set up right across from his site, next to the clear creek for which the campground was named.

After getting camp established, Pete and I headed into town for provisions and refreshments, returning to enjoy a pleasant evening under the stars, transfixed by a crackling campfire as we relaxed, rehydrated, and reflected on the day’s journey.

Day 4, October 25, Camp Verde to Fredonia, AZ

Camp Verde to Fredonia

This was to be a modest days ride, a mere 257 miles on US-89 through Sedona and Flagstaff, across the Colorado River for the second time at Marble Canyon, then US-89A past the Vermillion Cliffs, past Jacob Lake, the entrance to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (see 2021 Fall Moto: Abbey’s Other, On-the-Road Trip, Part 2), to the Grand Canyon Motel in Fredonia, AZ.  

My affinity to this place is lodged in my fond regard for Marguerite Henry’s children’s book, Brighty of the Grand Canyon, that I loved reading aloud to my elementary students. Brighty is a tale about a “lone little burro that roamed the high cliffs of the Grand Canyon and touched the hearts of all who knew him: a grizzled old miner, a big-game hunter, even President Teddy Roosevelt. Named Brighty by the prospector who befriended him, he remained a free spirit at heart. But when a ruthless claim-jumper murdered the prospector, loyal Brighty risked everything to bring the killer to justice.” 

Fredonia was where Uncle Jim retreated for the winter in the story of Brighty’s adventures as the little burro that has become the symbol of a joyous way of life. Some people say that you can even see his spirit roving the canyon on moonlit nights—forever wild, forever free.  

 The Life and Times of Brighty of the Grand Canyon

The landscapes of the Southwest that we traversed undoubtedly possess a grand, serene beauty all their own, yet the relentless exploitation of these places by commerce can sometimes overwhelm and diminish that natural splendor. In our quest for “sanctuary” and “refuge,” we’ve found that the very things we seek – the grandeur and serenity of the untamed wilderness – are often sullied by blatant attempts to “augment the experience” through tourist traps, roadside attractions, and other concessions to consumerism.

No matter how breathtaking the vistas, it’s difficult to fully immerse oneself in the natural wonder when the view is punctuated by kitschy souvenir shops, gaudy neon signs, or other intrusive commercial development. The very objective of our ride – to find solace and escape in the majesty of the southwestern landscapes – was undermined by the pervasive influence of those who would seek to profit from, rather than preserve, these precious resources.

It’s a delicate balance – honoring the needs of the modern traveler while safeguarding the integrity of the land. But in our experience, the scales have tipped too far in favor of exploitation, robbing these landscapes of the very qualities that drew us here in the first place. Navigating this tension, and finding those rare pockets of unspoiled beauty, had become a central challenge of our journey.

Jerome, while historically fascinating and successful in reinventing itself as an artsy tourist destination, suffered from the very thing that keeps it alive – tourism. The narrow streets, choked with “experience seeking” souls, detracted from any authentic experience immersing oneself in the rich history of Jerome one might hope to find.

Sedona proved even more jarring, with its commercialization dialed up to eleven through “vortex tours” and spiritual marketing. The official Visit Sedona website promises an idyllic autumn experience: “Sedona, with its vibrant red rocks and golden hues of autumn, offers a season of renewal and adventure… From hiking trails bathed in rich autumnal light to spiritual vortex tours that connect you to the land’s energy, the opportunities for exploration and personal discovery are endless.” Like dozens of bloggers and influencers promoting the Ultimate E-bike Tour of Sedona, or the VIP Sedona Vortex Spiritual and Scientific Tour, or The Original 4 Winery Tour with Charcuterie, et. al. each promotional image showing pristine, uncluttered landscapes – conspicuously absent are the traffic jams and crowds of “vortex seekers” on their personal discovery journeys, seeking the best spas and best UFO tours. Can there even be a “best” UFO tour? Apparently yes, in Sedona.

One might call our own quest for “sanctuary” hypocritical given these observations, but that’s precisely the point. Seeking an imagined sanctuary becomes impossible in landscapes exploited for mass consumption. What we’re sold is a cheapened, commercialized version of what the original inhabitants revered as genuinely spiritual places of unspoiled beauty.

The contrast became stark once we cleared Flagstaff. Until reaching Marble Canyon, commercial enterprise virtually disappeared. Along the route, Navajo Nation vendors sold jewelry and goods from simple roadside stands – no hype, no hard sell. These basic transactions between maker (or agent) and buyer provided local inhabitants with income while maintaining dignity. Their alluring tables displayed exquisite native craftsmanship without promising spiritual enlightenment or personal discovery merely through purchase. Though one might wonder about authenticity versus foreign counterfeits… 

“Here the earth, as if to prove its immensity, empties itself. Gertrude Stein said: ‘In the United States there is more space where nobody is than where anybody is. That is what makes America what it is.’ The uncluttered stretches of the American West and the deserted miles of roads force a lone traveler to pay attention to them by leaving him isolated in them. This squander of land substitutes a sense of self with a sense of place by giving him days of himself until, tiring of his own small compass, he looks for relief to the bigness outside — a grandness that demands attention not just for its scope, but for its age, its diversity, its continual change. The isolating immensity reveals what lies covered in places noisier, busier, more filled up. For me, what I saw revealed was this (only this): a man nearly desperate because his significance had come to lie within his own narrow ambit.”
― William Least Heat-Moon, Blue Highways

The Navajo Bridge over the Colorado at Marble Canyon

We eventually reached Fredonia, Arizona’s northernmost outpost, situated on Kanab Creek’s eastern bank. The town sits just four miles shy of the Utah-Arizona border in what’s known as the Arizona Strip – that peculiar portion of Arizona lying north of the Colorado River, wedged between the Grand Canyon and Utah. Thanks to the Grand Canyon serving as a natural barrier, this region has largely escaped the tide of urbanization that’s swept through other parts of the state.

The town’s origins tell a particularly ironic story of American settlement. Founded in 1865 by Mormon pioneers fleeing Utah to evade federal anti-polygamy laws, Fredonia’s name allegedly means “land of free women” – a bit of Mormon pioneer wordplay that requires no further comment. While tourism and agriculture keep the town alive today, that original history of seeking “freedom” from federal oversight adds another layer to our ongoing meditation on sanctuary and refuge.

Beyond campgrounds, we chase the ghosts of road trip Americana – the Supai in Seligman, the Clown Motel in Tonopah, the Y in Chama. The Grand Canyon Motel in Fredonia is another pearl on this string of fading roadside gems.” 

the Grand Canyon Motel, a treasure, to be sure

Chuck, the property manager, shared an unexpected piece of history while admiring our motorcycles. The motel’s story intertwines with Theodore Roosevelt’s bold move in January 1908, when he declared over 800,000 acres of the Grand Canyon a national monument. ‘Let this great wonder of nature remain as it now is,’ Roosevelt proclaimed. ‘You cannot improve on it. But what you can do is keep it for your children, your children’s children, and all who come after you, as the one great sight which every American should see.” (History.com)

Chuck claimed that Teddy Roosevelt stayed in one of the cabins.  Roosevelt died in 1919.  The cabins were built in the 1920’s as hunter cabins.  The mathing doesn’t work…  Nevertheless, his recommendation for dinner at Escobar’s Mexican Restaurant in Kanab was honest.  Even though it was our fourth Mexican meal in as many days, and though we were in a rather ethnically homogenous community, the chili relleno was one of the best I’ve ever had!  Me quito el sombrero ante los Escobar!

Following our fine meal, we made a quick stop at a gas station convenience store, the 3-R’s procured, and it was back to Fredonia to watch Freddie Freeman hit the 1st walk-off slam in World Series history as Dodgers topped the Yankees 6-3 in the classic opener.  As an avid Giants fan, it was a tough pill to swallow.  Hey, no irony in watching the World Series in the land of Brighty of the Grand Canyon…

Day 5, October 26, 2024 Fredonia to Glendale and the Zion Family Ranch

Fredonia to Zion Family Ranch

Zion Family Ranch to Zion and Back

There were two legs on this ramble to Zion National Park.  The first leg was from Fredonia on US-89A & 89 to Glendale, the nearest town to the campground.  It was a lovely fall morning and the roads were open and traffic was sparse. 

The Moqui Cave, in the 60’s (left), and a more recent photo (right)

We passed the Moqui Cave, yet another example of the crass exploitation of what was otherwise an interesting archeological site.  Moqui Cave was once used by Anasazi people as a shelter or food store, according to archaeological digs in the area.  It was rediscovered by white settlers in the 19th century, and served as a speakeasy in the 1920s during Prohibition.  Where the land of free women meets a speakeasy.  Speaking of irony, no irony there, eh?

We passed the Kanab Dinosaur Tracks and the Sand Caves road side attractions. Past Mt. Carmel we headed north up the tranquil Madison Canyon to Glendale near where our campsite at the Zion Family Ranch, one of seven “dispersed” (first come, first served) costing $49, was located.  In the internet era booking a campsite is like booking any lodging.  You put in your dates and supply a credit card number.  There was no camp host, no gate code, or any other acknowledgment of our arrival. The site looked unsupervised.  I guess that’s what “dispersed” means.  I guess that’s how the “Zion Family” ranchers distance themselves from commercial exploitation. I am grateful that they provided “sanctuary” on what was a family’s legacy property.  Sorry Paiutes.

Our plan was to set up camp at the Family Ranch, then head into Zion National Park for the day. It was a stunning morning – cool but not cold, with the poplars and aspens bursting with vibrant fall foliage. 

Since it was a Saturday, we tried to get an early start to beat the crowds.

Through Orderville east of the park, all was orderly.

However, by the time we made the 26-mile ride to the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel entrance on the east side of the park, the number of cars, trucks, trailers, and RVs had multiplied exponentially. Most of these visitors had entered the park from the western entrance near the town of Springdale.  Virtually every turnout was choked with people waiting for a parking space to open.

Zion National Park is undoubtedly one of the most unique and concentrated geological wonders outside of iconic places like Yosemite Valley. Yet, like Yosemite, it seems to be loved – if not quite to death – then at least to near non-existence. The sheer clutter of humanity obscures and detracts from the natural wonder of the landscape. I guess I have adopted a little Edward Abbey attitude about development on our nation’s national treasures.

Despite our best efforts to get an early start and keep our expectations checked, the overwhelming crowds at the park entrance on this busy Saturday dampened our excitement.  When you have to busy yourself with watching out for inattentive drivers in stop-and-go traffic or selfie-taking pedestrians who would blindly step into the crawl for that perfect Instagram post was a vivid reminder of the delicate balance between visitation and preservation that national parks must continually grapple with.

The following map of the topography of the region, while no substitute for the real thing, is worth a look:

Interactive USGS map of Utah

After a harried 2+ hour “tour” of the park (that you can enjoy in 34 minutes at https://youtu.be/_9hdx9c4SfY), we pulled over in Springdale to assess the situation. Pete and I decided to continue on to Hurricane for lunch and then return to our campsite by taking the longer route on AZ-389 through Colorado City to Fredonia and US-89 back to Mt. Carmel Junction.  It was 26 miles back through the park to our campsite.  It was 112 miles on our chosen route back.  Both could be done in the same amount of time according to the predictive Google maps, ~2.5 hours.  

After lunch in Hurricane, we returned to our campsite grabbing gas station sammies in Mt. Carmel junction for dinner along with our 3-R’s beverages.  The Zion Family Ranch facilities were quite nice including a heated bathroom with showers.  Firewood was available, payment made possible by Venmo.  The only human interaction we had was the following morning with a group of off-roaders who arrived after dark that evening as their dogs paid us a visit.  Location, location, location… We were in a secluded, natural setting near a very popular, crowded, National Park.  It was difficult for me to reconcile the incongruity of the events of the day.  Cheers to the 3-R’s!

Day 6, October 27, 2024 Zion, UT to Shoshone, CA

Zion Family Ranch to Shoshone

A longish day before us, some 344 miles, found us on US-89A back to Fredonia to avoid having to navigate the Zion stop-and-go.  Rolling past Colorado City, AZ, another controversial Mormon enclave with a “colorful” history, we soon reentered Utah and the Hurricane-St. George metropolitan area, a sprawling urban area in the midst of the intersection of the Colorado Plateau, Great Basin, and Sonoran deserts.  After a small navigation error (shoulda turned right instead of left) we found W Old Highway 9, avoiding the more scenic I-15 – if you can overlook tractor trailer rigs – that follows the route of the Old Spanish Trail into Arizona.  We were never too far from the Virgin River that is the great spirit of Mukuntuweap as we zoomed across the northwestern corner of Arizona to Mesquite, NV.  NV-169/167 took us past the bath-tub ringed, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, skirting Las Vegas through Henderson on NV-564/160.  With a tip of the helmet to Blue Diamond and the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation area (see our spring 2024 ride on sisyphusdw7.com:  Red Rock Canyons Ramble), we abruptly made a left turn off of NV-160 west on the Tecopa Rd that eventually took us to the Cal-Neva border and CA-127 to Shoshone, CA.

What was at least our sixth stay at the Shoshone RV Park and Campground, sixth meal at the Crowbar Cafe and Saloon, and sixth procurement of 3-R beverages at the Chas Brown General Store, we were set for what has become a favorite night under the stars (and a few sprinkles and some noisy coyotes) in a village that manages the whole preservation vibe, uncorrupted by crass commercialization, we have come to highly regard.  There’s also the issue of the lack of water sustaining a population of 22, modulating the delicate balance between local habitation and the visitation of Death Valley bound tourists with preservation.

Day 7, October 28, 2024 Shoshone to ?

Shoshone to Coalinga, Huh?

Our plan was to camp at Taboose Creek, midway between Independence and Big Pine along the Eastern Sierra, then make our way to Kernville overnight before returning home.  At a stop for lunch in Panamint Springs, another of our favorite “balanced” destinations, we overheard a conversation by a couple of locals of 50 mph winds stirring up that afternoon. Thus confirmed our concern that a rapidly developing frontal system would likely close Tioga Pass and would require changing those plans.  New plans:  We would bomb to Kernville for the night, some 288 miles, and get a roof over our heads.  

Setting out, the predicted winds materialized and our ride down Panamint Valley and Wildrose-Trona Rds eventually to CA-14 and CA-178 over Walker Pass was like riding a bucking bronc through drifting sands obscuring the road with fine dust breaching the seals of our helmet’s visors.  I’ve ridden in rain in the Rockies, fog in the Central Valley, searing heat across the Mojave, and snow flurries on the Paunsaugunt Plateau.  I’ve pedaled across the Big Horn in Wyoming in a thunder shower with hail pelting me on a bicycle, exposed to lightning.  I’ve weathered a Sierra thunderstorm and cross country skied in a whiteout.  Maybe because I survived all of those, my fear of calamity was only slightly moderated.  I was scared s*#tless.  But, as of this writing, I survived!  

I was in the lead and when we arrived in Lake Isabella where a right turn onto CA-155 would have taken us to Kernville. The wind, menacing dark skies, and light precip compelled me to forge ahead our next stop, Hart Lake, just north of Bakersfield to fuel up and make a plan for the night.  We had made 276 miles and the afternoon shadows were lengthening.  Our three options were to slab back to Merced on CA-99, the Bloody Highway, to zig and zag through the foothills ensuring a well after dark arrival home with the specter of a collision with Bambi, or shoot across the Tulare Lake basin to Coaling to stay at the Best Western Plus, where we stayed on the infamous, A Moment’s Inattention ramble.  

North on CA-65, west on CA-46 and north at Blackwells Corner, the last place James Dean was seen alive, an on to CA-33 where we arrived at the Best Western just as the sun set, 391 miles later.

We arranged for a room and after unloading the bikes we headed into Coalinga for our ritual of finding nourishment and refreshments.  It had been a long day of “riding hard” as Pete would snarl, and I was completely exhausted making decisions.  Taking the lead, rather than hitting the State Foods Supermarket or any of the fast food joints or taquerias, Pete pulled into the Coalinga Valley Market on Polk St. 

Entering this store, after such a long day and our decision making capacity compromised, we wandered around in circles through the floor to ceiling canyons of packaged food items.  The market was well stocked, but the only thing fresh in this store was at the carniceria.  

Such a colorful desert…

We found the beverage selection limited, but that didn’t stop us from landing a couple of 24’s.  As for food, I ended up getting a tin of smoked oysters and Lays Kettle Jalapeno chips, striking a nutritional balance between proteins, fats, and carbs.  Pete got a can of low sodium Spam, preferring a balanced saturated fat, protein, and even at 25% less sodium, salty fare.  The rest of the evening is a blur…

No wind, crickets, ravens, or coyotes at the Best Western Plus in Coaling Station A

Day 8 October 29, 2024 Coalinga Homeward

Homeward Bound

Approximately 91 miles north on CA-33 to Hudson Rd, a zig and a zag to CA-152 & 59 and presto, home from an 8 day odyssey that may seem from this narrative that at times wallowed in disappointment about the vibe, but, was by any definition an adventure:  an exciting ✔ or very unusual experience ✔; a bold, usually risky undertaking ✔; hazardous action of uncertain outcome ✔; filled with peril ✔, danger ✔, risk ✔, chance ✔, fortune ✔ and luck ✔.  All the boxes checked!

I harken back to a conversation during the relaxation, rehydration, reflection hour(s) around a campfire in Three Rivers a few years ago where we met Chris Baer, a white water adventurer who was running the Kern during a massive spring runoff, who when asked, “So, what’s the favorite river you’ve paddled?”  His reply, without hesitation, “The next one…”

I’m looking forward to a winter of bicycle riding and maybe I’ll hit the slopes, mended ankle permitting.  Until then I’ll be searching my AAA maps, Butler Maps, Google Maps, and fellow moto-touring YouTubers for what will invariably be my favorite, next ramble.  Until then, thanks once again to Pete for indulging me as a brother rambler, only slightly overwrought .

All the Best,

Sisyphus

sisyphusdw7.com Sisyphus and Associates, Much Ado About Nada 

@tjdw7 on Instagram

TjDW7 on YouTube

2024 Perseid Meteor Ramble

What is the purpose of a ride?

August 10 – 11, 2024

Every August, just when many people go vacationing in rural areas where skies are dark, free from light pollution, the famous Perseid meteor shower makes its appearance. The meteor shower peaked overnight this year on August 11-12.

August is also the month of “The Tears of St. Lawrence.” From Space.com:

Laurentius, a Christian deacon, is said to have been martyred by the Romans in A. D. 258 on an outdoor iron grill. In the midst of this torture, Laurentius was said to have cried out, “I am already roasted on one side and, if thou wouldst have me well cooked, it is time to turn me on the other.

Regardless of whether this actually happened (some believe that the story is a product of morbid medieval imagination), King Phillip II of Spain certainly believed it: He built his monastery palace, known as “El Escorial,” based on the floor plan of the holy gridiron. St. Lawrence’s death is commemorated every year on his feast day (Aug. 10).

To this day, the glorious Perseids — which peak every year between approximately Aug. 8 and Aug. 14 — are referred to as St. Lawrence’s “fiery tears.”

Mike Wickersham caught a colorful Perseid meteor giving the colorful aurora a run for its money in the skies above Lincoln City, Oregon, U.S.
(Image credit: Mike Wickersham)

On the Nature of Purpose

I’ve heard that the entire purpose of motorcycle riding is to make beer taste better.  In fact it was declared on The Lowdown podcast in a story related by its host, Neil Graham, in a recent episode. 

It is well known among the readers of this site that as a part of the customary Sisyphian 3-R  post-ride ritual of relaxation, rehydration, and reflection, a fermented carbonated beverage or two are consumed. Only in the spirit of nudging or expanding the reflection aspect while rehydrating with electrolytes, as we relax after a long day in the saddle.

But that is not our purpose when riding.  Our 3-Rs ritual’s “purpose” is not the purpose of the ride.  The ritual can be imagined as more of a tack in the sense of  a course of action or conduct, especially one differing from some preceding or other course.  As in sailing. For example, we do not drink while riding as we await the conclusion of the ride to imbibe.  As you might imagine, making sense of the events of the day in the reflection step of the 3-Rs is something we take seriously.  But rehydration, as in making beer taste better, wasn’t the purpose on this ride.   On the other hand, a bicycle ride just might enhance the taste of beer, to say nothing of the taste of tacos.

Our purpose on this ride was to view the Perseid Meteor shower.  The Perseid meteor shower peak was anticipated on or about August 10 and 11, 2024, as it occurs annually when Earth passes through debris — small bits of ice and rock — left by Comet Swift-Tuttle, which last approached Earth in 1992. This year the appearance of the Perseids was to occur as simultaneous auroras were expected in the more northerly latitudes which meant, auroras were unexpected in latitudes where we were visiting. 

Alas, we were in Bridgeport, CA, and not in Lincoln City, OR where the above photo was taken.  Lincoln City is approximately 44.65° North latitude whereas Bridgeport, California is approximately 38.08° North latitude.  The difference:  Lincoln City, OR’s latitude of 44.65° – Bridgeport, CA’s latitude of 38.08° puts Lincoln City, OR 6.57°of latitude north of Bridgeport, CA. 

Meteors would be visible but the 6.57° difference in latitude was apparently enough to preclude seeing any aurora.  

Wouldn’t you know it, though we had chosen an ideal rural area with little light pollution to obscure the Perseids, on Saturday, August 11, as seen from our campsite at Doc and Al Hunewill’s Campground, there were beautiful lenticulars streaming over the Sierra.

The setting sun created an alpenglow overcast that would later limit our sighting of all but one meteor that night before we abandoned the campfire to slumber. It wasn’t an aurora, it wasn’t a meteor shower, but it wasn’t half bad!

I have to admit that a campfire does somewhat improve the taste of beer but is that the campfire’s purpose?

Day 1 Wheels Keep on Turning

Our journey began early on Saturday morning, August 10 to beat the remnant heat dome smothering the Central Valley of California along the route over Sonora Pass on CA-108.  This familiar route took us from our home in Mercerd, California (without the requisite reservation for traversing the Sierra over Tioga Pass in Yosemite), past the new Chicken Ranch Casino and what I believe to be the only round-about in Tuolumne County.

We rambled past Jamestown, through Sonora and the unincorporated villages before reaching Pinecrest Lake.  Stopping in Strawberry at the Strawberry General Store for coffee and a snack we met Pup and Larry the store dogs. Larry never met a stick he wouldn’t fetch and Pup makes sure the middle of the parking lot is secure. So secure, he naps there.

On to Dardanelle, and Kennedy Meadows then over Sonora Pass, past the Marine Corps Warfare Training Center to US-395 and with a strong 5 iron (or field artillery cannon shot), south on US-395 and you arrive in Bridgeport.  Not only did we not need a reservation, but according to Google, we shaved 16 miles off of our first leg over CA-168.

No conga lines on CA-108 like those at any of the Yosemite pinch points

We checked in at Doc and Al’s about 6 miles west of town along Robinson Creek around noon having successfully beat the heat.  Bridgett, the gracious campground hostess, had just opened the office.  She is a member of the Hunewill Family that has been a part of the Bridgeport Valley since the 1860s. Currently, the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th generations run a guest ranch a couple miles down the road from Doc and Al’s. 

The ranch and campgrounds are located on a beautiful verdant plain that provides feed for the working cattle ranch and the numerous horses that are employed by the guest ranch that is kept green by the waters of the Sawtooth watershed.  Bridgeport is what much of the Owens Valley must have looked like before the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power captured the watershed of the Eastern Sierra sending it to La La Land.  

Doc and Al’s and the Hunewills Family, all four generations

The campsite was ideal for meteor watching with a large tended grass field with 360 degree open sky views framed by the Sawtooth Range to the west.  Further up the road is Twin Lakes, a popular summer fishing and camping destination.  Beyond Twin Lakes one enters the Sawtooths where once upon a time in the mid 80’s was a backpacking destination. 

Lower Twin Lake and the Sawtooth Range

Since the Perseids weren’t to make an appearance until 11:00 pm, we decided to head out to Bodie, a ghost town in the Bodie Hills east of the Sierra Nevada in Mono County, 19 mi east-southeast of Bridgeport at an elevation of 8,379 feet. 

Our destination: Bodie, a ghost town in arrested decay

Bodie became a boomtown in 1876 after the discovery of a profitable vein of gold and by 1879 it had established 2,000 structures with a population of roughly 8,000 people.  Besides several devastating fires over the years, the town went into decline in the subsequent 35 years and came to be described as a ghost town by 1915. The U.S. Department of the Interior recognizes the designated Bodie Historic District as a National Historic Landmark. Bodie is also registered as a California Historical Landmark and the ghost town officially was established as Bodie State Historic Park in 1962 in a state of “arrested decay.” Some would believe we live in a state, California, that is in “arrested decay.”  I, for one, am not one of them!

Glory to the Grizzly!

Surprised there was no Clamper plaque

The road to Bodie is paved except for the last 3 miles into the ghost town.  The washboard dirt/gravel road is sound and we had no issues with the modest knobbies on the V85-TT and street tires on Pete’s VStrom aside from some filling rattling on the washboard and some slip-slide-aroos in the drifted gravel corners.

The delightful ranger at the kiosk patiently waited for me to clumsily remove gloves, search for my wallet, and provide the $8.00 entrance fee.  Much to my dismay, there was no “senior discount” and since it was an Historic State Park, my NPS Senior Pass was useless.  But, what’s $8.00 in the larger scheme of our Perseid bound purpose? Upon handing me a site map that she described as free, I couldn’t help but mutter, “Free?  Nope, it cost $8.00.” 

I suddenly felt like the man called Otto.  She laughed, so I didn’t feel quite the schmuck.

Given all of the small bottles in the window, I say this was an apothecary

This may have been a mercantile

The remains of a stamp mill that once numbered in the dozens

The remains of the mill at the Standard Mine

No, we’re not reenactors posing as miners

We met Blue, the fellow in the camo cap who with his brother and a couple of other buddies were riding the California BDR section from Mammoth to Oregon.  He asked what it was like coming in on the gravel road on street tires.  Since we hadn’t crashed, we replied, it wasn’t bad.  At which time he admitted that he was inexperienced in the grueling backcountry discovery route and that his crew had greater experience riding in the backcountry.  His preferred moto was a Harley.  We agreed that ignorance can be somewhat blissful, of course, until it isn’t…  

I was intending to get Pete who was in conversation with Blue with ADV bikes in the background in this sunscreen smudged frame, but alas, as you can tell from my expression, I cannot see.

I remembered that a few years ago on another trip to Bodie that when electrification came to the town to run the ore crushing mill, it was something of an experiment.  From Bodie.com

Originally, the Standard Consolidated Mill was run by steam power, but wood was a resource that was expensive and became more expensive as it had to be hauled from further and further away. In November 1892, Thomas H. Leggett convinced James Cain to invest in his idea of transmitting power over a long distance. The power was to be used in the Mill, which would greatly reduce the amount of wood needed, and thus the costs associated with it. Cain agreed and work began. The Mill had new electrical equipment installed, a power substation was built, and lines were run from the Mill to the substation, and from the substation to Green Creek, where the Hydroelectric Power Plant was built. In fact, the lines were run 13 miles in a straight line! At the time, it’s believed that engineers weren’t sure if the power would ‘jump out of the line and into the ground’ on sharp corners – on the other hand, it cost less to run a straight line, rather than adding footage for turning corners…

I never cease to be amazed by the tenacity of the miners of that era. To have seen the elephant must have been as much a spiritual quest as it was ambitious, to say nothing of how arduous their pursuit of riches, more often, ended unrealized.

Taco time

Upon returning to Bridgeport to deal with having starved Pete by taking our afternoon Bodie diversion, we were told by Bridgett at Doc and Al’s about a taco truck by the Big Meadow Brewing Company.  Now, normally that’s a guaranteed good mangia e beve.  And while the food and drink were satisfying, Pete’s Place Truck in Bridgeport has a way to go before it achieves Central California truck taco authenticity. 

What was authentic was the Saturday afternoon entertainment by the Sawtooth Rangers featuring a mandolin, guitar, bass, keys, drums and Chris Murphy on the fiddle.  Wait for the fiddle solo in the clip.

The Sawtooth Rangers, Harvest Moon

After shopping for Perseid inspired beverages, we headed back to Doc and Al’s and settled in for the evening.  Disappointed by the cloud obscured heavens, we nevertheless enjoyed the 3-R’s and a wonderful campfire.

Sunset at Doc and Al’s

Relaxing, Rehydrating, Reflecting and perhaps, making the beer taste better

Day 2 Aspendell, a Lake, Bishop, & Benton

There’s nothing quite like an Eastern Sierra sunrise

Through a restless night, a sore throat and congestion began to rage.  Coughing and sneezing as I stepped out of my tent to view a glorious sunrise, I was reminded of my career following the summer recess and joining my 105 middle school students.  It would be the second week or so of the new school year, about the time of our Perseid Ramble this year, that I would get my first late summer viral infection that would morph into a bacterial sinus infection.  Nothing like cramming 35 kids into a petri dish with deficient air circulation for six periods a day allowing a rhinovirus to spread like wildfire. 

Recommended fast breaker

And just as I persevered back then, I popped a couple of Tylenol Gels, downed a camp mocha, and after a delightful breakfast at the Bridgeport Inn, we headed south on US-395 with Aspendell and Sabrina Lake on our this-day diversion as we awaited the second night, and hopefully clearer skies, of the Perseids.   

A nice Eastern Sierra day-ramble

Aspendell is a vacation community near the terminus of CA-168 East that terminates at Sabrina Lake.  Over the Sierra crest lies the terminus of CA-168 W just east of the shore of Huntington Lake.  The Central Sierra can be crossed over CA-108, Sonora Pass, CA-120, Tioga Pass, and Sherman Pass Rd with the southernmost crossing at Walker Pass.  I wonder if ever CalTrans considered a route across the Central Sierra, between Tioga Pass, CA-120 and Walker Pass, CA-178?  Mt. Wendel, Mt. Darwin, Mt. Haeckel, and Mt. Wallace guards the entrance to the Evolution Basin just over the crest.   For more information and the history of the Cardinal Mine, check out: 

A Guide to Cardinal Mine in Bishop Creek Canyon

Main Street in Aspendell

In the heart of Aspendell

Sometime in the mid-80’s a group of friends and I hiked from Sabrina Lake to Lone Pine by way of Whitney Summit concluding the trip with a fine meal at the Merry Go Round restaurant in Lone Pine.  It was then known as something of fine dining in Lone Pine.  I believe it has now reincarnated as a Chinese food restaurant.  I’m sure hungry Whitney conquerors would today enjoy a Chinese spread as we enjoyed steak dinners with wine back in the day. 

Mt. Wendel, Mt. Darwin, Mt. Haeckel, and Mt. Wallace

Sabrina Lake AKA Lake Sabrina

The locals pronounce the lake “Sah-bry-nuh”

Lake Sabrina was created by damming the middle fork of Bishop Creek. The dam was built in 1907-08 to supply a constant flow of water to hydraulic power plants. The lake is part of the Bishop Creek system.

After noting the failure of my left leg zipper on my armored pants, I attempted to solve the issue with a safety pin.  Given the density and thickness of the ballistic nylon material to which the zipper was stitched, I would have needed a ballistic safety pin which the young lady manning the register at the Cardinal Village Store, who graciously searched for any safety pin, could not locate. 

No super glue but anything you could think of for fishing

My next brilliant idea was to super glue the section at the top of the pant leg where four teeth were mysteriously missing causing the zipper to unzip, thus creating a new stop at the end of the zipper.  Alas the store had no super glue.  I decided it was warm enough to welcome the extra ventilation of a completely unzipped leg certain I could find super glue in Bishop.  

By the time we reached Bishop, the temperature was around 102 degrees.  After a quick refuel, we made our way east and north on US-6 headed to Benton where we would then head west on CA-120 to Lee Vining and US-395 north back to Bridgeport, the Bridgeport hardware store for super glue, a bite to eat and provisions for some Perseid watching at our camp at Doc and Al’s. 

Get this, we had cooling vests that when soaked in water, afford some relief from the heat by way of evaporative cooling.  Did we elect to adorn them in Bishop?  Negative.  Compelled by the unrelenting heat, we embarked on the ~35 mile ramble along the western slope of the Inyo Mountains to Benton.  It was miserably hot but there was some relief along the route where adjacent irrigated alfalfa fields yielded somewhat lower temps.  Some decisions are best not ignored…

Note: It just so happens that upon my return from our Perseid Ramble, I watched Brent Underwood’s, Ghost Town Living YouTube channel about the Jeffrey mine located east of those irrigated alfalfa fields.

I Climbed To A Forgotten Mine That Transformed The Automobile Industry

Bishop to Benton in the heat of the day

In Mr. Underwood’s own words:  “In this video* I take a beautiful trek to a mine that once produced a mineral that they called “more rare than gold!” It was a mineral that was only commercially mined in this location in the entire world, yet it was responsible for something that is part of our everyday lives.”  If you guessed the mineral to which he referred that went into the manufacturing of spark plugs in the earliest era of automobiles, you’d be incredibly prescient.  Once again, how tough were those seeking reward in the early days of mineral extraction in the deserts and mountains of California and Nevada!

One of the last payphones in California?  Not a gold mine, but at $0.25 per call, it might supplement SSI benefits

The Guzzi’s air cooled engine preferred the shade, what little was available

In Benton we came to our senses and rehydrated with questionable energy/electrolyte beverages. We did finally soak our cooling vests for the ride into Lee Vining. 

Boundary Peak

Benton Station whose gloried past was just that…

Benton is one of the oldest existing towns in Mono County. The town was founded by the western [Piute and Shoshone] Indians who came to make use of its hot springs. As the nearby towns of Bodie and Aurora grew in size and population, Benton soon became a checkpoint for southbound travelers in 1852.  Gold was discovered in the hills of Benton in 1862, and its population quickly grew. After the initial gold strike, little more was found. Benton’s profits were soon primarily from silver. Unlike other mining towns, Benton was able to provide enough for the town to thrive and flourish for approximately 50 years in supplying the more prosperous mines in the area. Although most mining activity occurred between 1862 and 1890.  The Carson and Colorado Railroad reached Benton in 1883.  (Wiki)

Once a small mining town with up to 5,000 inhabitants and with many of the original buildings remaining, the town has never completely died.  The gas station/cafe and adjacent, Smally’s Market, along with the Inn at Benton Hot Springs sum up the commercial side of this quaint intersection at US-6 and CA-120 that provides the current residents and tourists with an approximation of the thrive(ing) and flourish(ing) of the town’s past.

A-120 from Benton to Lee Vining  is one of my all-time favorite moto routes

Sweeping curves, open vistas, undulations, a juniper forest corridor, and Mono Lake make this route through the volcanic landscape of the Eastern Sierra a motorcyclist’s dream!

Whhhoooop-whhhoooo!

Back in Bridgeport we secured some Gorilla Glue and made our way back to Doc and Al’s to make repairs on the pants before heading to The Barn for their acclaimed Carne Asada Fries.  While I find much of Wonderhussy’s YouTube content amusing, her culinary recommendation leaves the epic out of epicurean.  I found her endorsement of The Barn’s Carne Asada Fries to be less than epic.  Satisfying, but not epic. The burgers and other menu items are great, even the fish tacos I have had on previous visits were among the best I’ve had in this land of little rain.   The asada, however, was nada. 

By nightfall, my germinating head cold had blossomed into a raging sore throat, headache, runny nose, and coughing/sneezing affliction.  So much so that my 3R’s were reduced to a single R, reflection.  There would be little relaxation and no rehydration, least wise of the fermented beverage sort (okay, maybe most of one) as it was all I could do to enjoy a cozy campfire and what turned out to be a satisfying meteor sighting event.  Fortunately for Pete’s sake, we saw a good two dozen or more significant meteor trails in the course of the hour or two that we endured beginning at the appointed 11:00 pm showtime.  We also had to burn through three bundles of firewood procured from the campground office.  My less than enthusiastic disposition didn’t dampen Pete’s excitement at viewing the meteors, Starlink and other satellites impersonating UAP’s, roaming the heavens in our fertile imaginations.

I cannot take credit for the photo, though we saw several like this one Perseid meteor shower: Bill Ingalls/NASA via Getty Images

Laurentius was said to have cried out, “I am already roasted on one side and, if thou wouldst have me well cooked, it is time to turn me on the other.”

Day 3 – The Curse of St. Lawrence’s “fiery tears”  

The next morning I was no less congested. As we were enjoying our ritual mochas, we were visited by some local denizens, perhaps employees of Doc and Al’s.

Pete Makes New Friends

It was time to pack up and head home.  I think the route back from the East Side over Sonora Pass is more difficult than the ride up and over the western slope.  Namely because there are a series of 10 and 15 mph uphill compound curve switchbacks that require a little braking/throttle finesse that when loaded with gear tends to increase the pucker factor.  

Pucker Factor Formula

If you ride or remember high school physics, the graphic above makes sense.  If it doesn’t, refer to Burr Trail Here We Come, a blog from a previous tour to Utah.  Towards the end of the blog, I explain how similar uphill compound curves on CA-4 over Ebbetts Pass resemble those on the way to summiting Sonora Pass from the east and how they are fraught with pucker peril.  

Sonora Pass, CA-108 from the East

Like the 45 minute leisurely walk to the midpoint of the trail ride and 15 minute gallop back on the return leg of the 1 hour horseback ride at the beach, our only stop on the way home was in Jamestown at the 76 Station just off of CA-49 to soak the cooling vests for the remainder of the ride across the sweltering foothills and plains home. 

Upon descending from the pass, el. 9624 feet, my eustachian tubes were now filled with covid spooge and were comparably aching to ear infections I incurred during long summer days spent in the 17th Street Pool  in Merced as a lad.  You might say I was experiencing tympanic panic, especially as I extracted the ear plug we use to soften wind noise in one’s helmet.  You see, air in the middle ear expands as one gains altitude, and pushes its way into the back of the nose and mouth.  Then on the way down, the volume of air in the middle ear shrinks, and a slight vacuum is produced sucking spooge from one’s sinuses into the eustachian cavity while making the removal of the earplug a painful ordeal, in this instance, requiring the Leatherman tool to extract.  Since space abhors a vacuum, covid spooge filling my eustachian tube, also called the auditory tube or pharyngotympanic tube, hence tympanic panic

Passing our favorite taco truck in Snelling, M&D’s, despite what I’m sure was Pete’s voracious hunger, we rambled on, weary from the heat.  When finally I pulled into my driveway back home in Merced, I immediately took off the ATGATT costume and jumped into a cool shower.  Somewhat refreshed, I managed to remove the panniers from the moto and garage the bike before becoming overcome by fatigue.  It was then my, wife who in responding to my text that I had arrived safely home, suggested I take a covid test.  

HOLY SCHNIKES! Well, at least it wasn’t pneumonia…

In spite of dutifully updating my vaccinations, it was then that I conceded my attempt to mask my condition as a head cold, like those of my days in the classroom that would visit me not long after the resumption of the school year, was at best an incautious ruse.  Thankfully Pete, who had been belted by the C-19 only a few weeks prior, tested negative upon my notifying him.  As for any of the other folks with whom I shared a common air space, Typhoid Tommy begs your forgiveness!  Alas, whoever infected me, be damned!

A course of Paxlovid and Benzonatate later and my recovery is nearly complete.  Just don’t let my wife know that my (fabricated) covid symptom of “brain fog” or hearing loss is as much of an excuse for being lazy or intentionally inattentive as it is likely real.   As always, thanks for enduring my overwrought loquaciousness and stunningly mediocre photography.  Check the blog at www.sisyphusdw.com for other harrowing tales of geezers on bikes. 

Arrivederci!

Postscript, August 27, 2024

An early October trip is in the works.  We’ve wanted to ramble into northern California and Oregon.  We’re hopeful that the fires that have plagued the region this summer will have abated.  Then there’s a return trip to Utah that might just compel a trip east.  Ours is a curse of abundance when it comes to planning one of these rambles! 

In either case, thanks for joining us from the comfort wherever you can catch a screen…

No Italics Necessary: 1884, A Thought Experiment by the Numbers

It has risen and set pretty regularly…

In June 2024, I will celebrate my 70th birthday. Seventy revolutions around the sun (years) and 365.25 x 70, 25575.5 earth rotations (days) since my birth in 1954.

In the year of my birth as a native son, 1954, the population of California was 12.75 million (June 1954).

My birthplace, the city of Merced’s population in 1950 was 15,144. This figure represents a 49% increase from 1940 to 1950. It’s reasonable to assume at a ~5% growth rate, Merced’s population in 1954 was around 17,500(+/-).

I’ve randomly chosen three events of some importance that occurred in 1954 America:

1. U.S. tests hydrogen bomb at Bikini Atoll

2. The Supreme Court rules on Brown v. Board of Education, stating that segregation in public schools is unconstitutional

3. Joe DiMaggio wed Marilyn Monroe

Out of curiosity, I wondered what was going on, seventy years prior to my birth, back in 1884 America:

1. The Statue of Liberty was unveiled and dedicated by President Grover Cleveland.

2. Huckleberry Finn was published by Mark Twain.

3. The Washington Monument was dedicated in the Nation’s Capitol.

140 years of water under many bridges.

What will three noteworthy events might be listed in 2024?

1.

2.

3.

Go out on a limb and speculate what three events might occur in 2094, seventy years hence

1.

2.

3.

Happy Birthday fellow 70-year-olds-in-2024!

2024 Red Rock Canyons Spring Ramble: Ride, Camp, Repeat

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, a proverbial phrase fittingly describes the writer’s extensive desert adventure. Facing wintry challenges, they embarked on a meticulous journey, blending familiarity with the unfamiliar for an enriched experience. From Red Rock Canyon State Park in California to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in Nevada, the trip featured unique geological landmarks, encounters with motorcycling enthusiasts, and unexpected surprises along the way. Amidst the landscapes, historical sites, and wildlife encounters, the narrative captures the essence of exploration, camaraderie, and personal reflection. Reflecting on both the joy of seasoned travel and the allure of venturing into the unknown, the writer shares their aspiration for a future adventure, blending nature’s diverse offerings and the prospect of new companionship.

The content provides insights into the challenges and pleasures of the extensive desert trip, offering a captivating blend of personal experiences, historical references, and geographic details.

April 7 – 12

“A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step” is a common saying that originated from a Chinese proverb. The quotation is from Chapter 64 of the Dao De Jing ascribed to Laozi, although it is also erroneously ascribed to his contemporary Confucius. (Thanks Wiki…)

This saying teaches that even the longest and most difficult ventures have a starting point; something which begins with one first step. 

This spring’s first step took place as the holidays (Thanksgiving and Christmas, 2023) following Austin Bound, Austin Nevada That Is, launched me into planning our next winter/spring desert adventure.  Winter’s heavy snowpack was still blocking the familiar Ebbitts, CA-4/Monitor, CA-78, Sonora, CA-108, Tioga, CA-120, and Sherman Pass Rd, Forest Rte 22S05, all passes we’ve taken from our home in the Central Valley of California to cross the mighty Sierra. Late winter/early spring storms threatened closing our more familiar southern routes including Alta Sierra, CA-155, and Walker Pas, CA-178.  Tehachapi, CA-58 would only be considered in desperation to avoid defeat.  

Timing, as they say, was everything.  Variables informing my route planning included setting a week’s worth of time for a journey of a thousand miles with calendar approvals from the invitees, a cautious eye to 15 day weather forecasts, securing what has become the nuisance of a campsite reservation (given our age induced entitlement, we don’t boondock), and deciding what new features of riding, camping, and repeating would make this spring trip to the Mojave different from those of the past. 

I’ve always wanted to compare California’s Red Rock Canyon State Park to Nevada’s Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.  Note that there are “Red Rock Canyons” in California, Nevada, Arizona, Colorado, Utah, perhaps multiple-named features in each state and probably anywhere else there’s oxidized iron in the soil through which a river once flowed.  Laozi would be proud of narrowing the scope of our journey of a thousand miles to just two red rock canyons in two states.  

This tour’s invitees included Pete and Andy.  Pete was “from-the-get-go” a go after prodding him to actually look at a calendar and check in with his partner Cheryl to clear seven days.  Andy was crickets until two days before our planned departure after indicating he’d be available after his wife Toni’s birthday in early March. But he bowed out due to an odd impairment from dragging baggage in Guatemala.  That’s an excuse for the books…

If you have followed the exploits of Sisyphusdw7.com, then you are familiar with Pete and Andy.  Pete rides a Suzuki V-Strom and Andy sports a Moto Guzzi Norge while I mount on a Moto Guzzi V85-TT.  You’ll also be familiar with Andy’s absence on all but one trip, Riding Under a Fool Moon, and Pete’s perfect attendance on each moto adventure I’ve chronicled on Sisyphusdw7.com since its inception in 2016.  Next time, eh Andy?

Click the links of the daily headings to see the route maps.

Day 1, Merced to Red Rock Canyon State Park

Red Rock and sandstone Hoodoos

The first leg of the journey of a thousand miles began at our usual meeting place, the Chevron station on G St and Yosemite Ave in Merced.  There happened to be four fellow bicycle riders who were meeting for a Sunday morning ride when I arrived to meet Pete.  Loaded and ready for rambling, as is often the case describing our plan to our cycling friends, a faraway look in the eyes of one of the bicyclists was punctuated by, “I wanna go! I wanna go!”  

This first step of the journey included some 200 miles through the San Joaquin Valley floor skirting farming communities of Dos Palos, Firebaugh, Mendota, Tranquility, Lemoore, Corcoran, Allensworth, and Wasco.  We even passed near the community of Neufeld, perhaps named for members of Andy’s farming lineage.  Passing by Corcoran, a lake called “Pa’ashi” by the indigenous Tachi Yokut tribe, that had disappeared 130 years ago from California largely by way of the diversion of the Kings, Kaweah, Tule, and Kern Rivers for irrigation and to a lesser extent, periodic drought, and now, after a series of severe weather events in 2023, the lake had returned.  

Images from NASA’s Aqua satellite orbiting the earth show the progression of flooding in the Tulare Lake Basin from March 2 through April 28, 2023

As a result of mitigation by stakeholder groups, the lake is now receding.  What may also be receding are dreams of high speed rail in California as funding of the controversial project is questioned.  Below is a drone image courtesy of hsr.ca.gov taken near Wasco in the southern San Joaquin Valley where the viaduct is being constructed to raise the rail-bed above potential flooding.

Could this become the high speed rail to nowhere?

Leaving the valley, we traveled another 100 miles through the pump-jacks of the Kern River Oilfield, along the outskirts of Oildale, through the Kern River Hart Memorial Park, and then meandering through the Kern River Canyon past Lake Isabella, over Walker Pass on CA-178, to south on CA-14, all en route to our first campsite at Red Rock Canyon State Park.  The California version of a Red Rock Canyon.

Many of the pump-jacks appeared to be new and they were dipping and rising en masse in what must be the expression of how us ‘Meri”can”s have nearly achieved oil independence.  Who needs high speed rail when up through the ground comes a bubblin’ crude?  Just in case, I’m joking.  Though I ride a fossil fuel consuming motorbike, I support alternatives for mass and individual transit (high speed rail and bicycles) that don’t entirely depend on the crude.

The Kern River Oil Field covers an area of 10,750 acres (43.5 km^2) in a rough oval extending over the low hills north-northeast of Bakersfield, in the lower Sierra foothills, hills which are now almost completely barren except for oil rigs, drilling pads and associated equipment. This area is the densest operational oil development in the state of California: Midway-Sunset southeast of the Kern River oilfield, which has more wells, is almost three times as large in surface area, for a lower overall density.

There are others, like the McKittrick fields I’ve featured in a previous Super Bloom post. Yielding a cumulative production of close to 2 billion barrels (320,000,000 m^3) of oil by the end of 2006, it is the third largest oil field in California, after the Midway-Sunset Oil Field and the Wilmington Oil Field, and the fifth largest in the United States.  Its estimated remaining reserves, as of the end of 2006, were around 476 million barrels (75,700,000 m^3), the second largest in the state. It had 9,183 active wells, the second highest in the state. The principal operator on the field is Chevron Corporation.  (Thanks Wiki…) 

The contrast between the verdant ag lands of the valley floor and the desolate oilfield, from which the last barrels of carbon were being extracted, is striking.  For a detailed history and updated production figures, check out:  Kern River Oilfield.  Our impact on the environment for feeding our civilization is fragile when you consider that as few as 150 years ago the indigenous peoples of the region lived in relative harmony with nature.

The temperatures were just right until we began climbing up to Lake Isabella.  Clouds and a passing cold front made for a chilly section of CA-178, the Kern Canyon Road.  Along with a couple of “Roadwork Ahead”, “Prepare to Stop” signages as two lanes merged into a single lane, a chilling scene unfolded as we came upon a motorcyclist who was writhing on the road having apparently been thrown from his bike that was lying against the canyon wall some hundreds of yards away…

Be careful out there… (Pardon the expletive), with the Steve Miller Band, Further On Up the Road

Once we made it to the divided four lane portion of CA-178 as we approached Lake Isabella we experienced a brief respite from the twisty canyon road traffic traveling down the Kern River Valley with a lunch stop at The 178 Bar and Grill.

The sun broke through the clouds and we enjoyed a little thermal respite besides that transmitted through heated grips on the motos.  It’s always a challenge to insulate against the cold and heat when moving from one elevation/climate zone into another, namely the Sierra to the Mojave, regardless of the season.  Passing through the small lakeside communities of South Lake and Waldon, we then passed through the more rural agricultural communities of Onyx and Canebrake.  It’s there we began the climb over Walker Pass (el. 5250 ft) where, coincidentally, the Pacific Crest Trail intersects.  

The pass was charted as a route through the Sierra in 1834 by Joseph Rutherford Walker, a member of the Bonneville Expedition who learned of it from Native Americans. Walker returned through the pass in 1843, leading an immigrant wagon train into California. In 1845 the military surveying expedition of John C. Fremont used the pass. He suggested it be named after Walker.  Walker Pass was used in 1861 by cattlemen from the San Joaquin Valley and the Tejon region of the Tehachapi mountains to drive cattle to the silver boomtown of Aurora near Mono Lake.  Aside from the paved road, the pass is essentially unaltered since Walker mapped it in 1834.  (Thanks Wiki…)

Join Sisyphus with Dwight Yoakam and Neil Young on a hyper-ramble over Walker Pass

The view from Walker Pass to the vast expanse of the Mojave desert is stunning. 

At the intersection of CA-178 and CA-14 we headed south, arriving at Red Rock Canyon State Park in just a few minutes.  This state park has no reservation campsites, however, each site has a table, potable water and pit toilets are available, some even open air stalls!  There is a fee that we paid, including a $2 senior discount and our reasoning that since a second vehicle added $6, our two 2-wheeled motos were the equivalent of a 4-wheeled vehicle requiring no additional fee.  Having no pen or pencil we left the envelope in the drop box (duh) keeping the tag just in case a friendly ranger or maintenance worker checked in with us suspecting turnstile jumping dirtbag motorcyclists.  

The campsite at Red Rocks State Park in eastern Kern County

The area was once home to the Kawaiisu people. Some petroglyphs and pictographs are found in the El Paso Mountains and represent ritual sites from ancestors of the Coso people were early indigenous inhabitants of this locale. They created extensive carvings in rock within the El Paso and neighboring mountains of Red Rock Canyon and conducted considerable trade with other tribes as far as the Chumash on the Pacific coast.

The colorful rock formations in the park served as landmarks during the early 1870s for 20-mule team freight wagons that stopped for water. The park protects significant paleontology sites and the remains of 1890s-era mining operations.

Providing several unique, dramatic areas, and close to Los Angeles, since the 1930s Hollywood has frequently filmed at Red Rock Canyon, including motion pictures, television series, advertisements, and music videos. (Thanks Wiki…)

And of course, here’s one of my very favorite programs filmed in the Red Rock Canyon State Park, Huell Howser’s Golden Parks episode

A blustery welcome to our first night campsite on the Red Rock Canyons Ramble…
Pete’s selfie-ish photo that might have broken the internet if only he had social media…

The nearest provisions were at the Jawbone Canyon Store, whose motto is, “Let them eat dirt!” around 7 miles further south on CA-14. That is where we thought we were going to get our dinner and 3R’s beverages after setting up camp.  By then the wind was howling out of the south.  When we arrived at the store that is popular among the ORV crowd around 5:30 pm, on this Sunday, the store was closed, so I guess, eating dirt was our option. 

A quick search of Google Maps indicated that California City, about 14 miles further south, appeared to be a settlement of some consequence, so off we went battling sidewinds as the sun began to hug the western horizon. 

After fueling up, procuring our favorite beverages, along with a bag of Fritos and a bundle of firewood at the One Stop Market, apparently in the midst of billion dollar lottery fever given the size of the crowd buying quick-picks, we headed back to camp after a 340 mile day.  Fritos would have to do as our hearty lunch in Lake Isabella would sustain us…

3-R’s and combustion

Twas a bit windy through the night, however as the sun arose on Monday morning, the wind had settled down.

Good Morning Red Rock Canyon State Park
Neither Pete nor I are paleontologists, but are both fans of the Flintstones. We agreed we had found the remains of stegosaurus rubrum
There are some rocks worthy of being described as red…
Ill mio bella rosso moto…

A shorter day by ~100 miles lay ahead as we planned to sprint south on CA-14 to Redrock-Randsburg Rd en route to dawdle a bit in Randsburg on our way across Death Valley to Shoshone, one of our favorite stops.

Randsburg California, or Rand Mining District as it is also known, is considered to be a “Living Ghost Town”. Holding on to the very brink of existence, this small mining community is located in the Northern Mojave. Outdoor recreation booms here: ATV, dirt bikes, 4x4s, motorcyclists. RVers & car clubs are welcomed. Weekends can be busy with tourists, local horsemen & desert dirt boys, but on week days you’ll have the place to yourself. An old fashioned soda fountain at the general store & a real old west saloon, hours vary with season. The Joint is the local bar. Randsburg is a great place for interesting desert photography. (Thanks to the Randsburg.com website, the domain for which is 4-sale)

It was around 9:00 am on a Monday morning and in spite of the promotion about how people are dying to go to Randsburg, not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse.  Wait, there was a dog barking at us from afar.  We did pretty much have the place to ourselves except for a couple of local spirits.

Pete was intrigued and wondered how much was that little Yamaha in the window. The Bulltaco was probably a better deal…

Is that an apparition appearing in the photo?

Next we were off to Trona on, what else but, Trona Rd and our favorite Trona cafe, Esparza’s for breakfast. You could consider that Exparza’s has a lakeside location.  Except for the fact it’s Searles Lake.  What the restaurant lacked by way of a view was more than compensated by the delicious fish tacos.  I only hope they weren’t fresh from Searles Lake…

Eclipse? What eclipse? I’m here for the tacos

From there it was off to Death Valley via Trona-Wildrose Rd with a tailwind for a change. At the intersection of the Wildrose entrance to the park and the CA-190 Townes Pass entrance, there appeared a sign warning against the faint-of-heart tackling that route.  We came upon a couple who we speculated were on rented Harleys, harleying their way to Death Valley, in full Haley regalia; riveted black leather jackets with fringe and matching chaps, hers with fringe, the chap’s, fringeless.  They came to a sudden and mildly confused appearing stop as we approached at customary cruising speed on those long lonesome straightaways, safely under 100 mph.  We passed, losing their tableau in the rear view mirror.  I hope they chose well.  It would be sad if they suffered like those bleached Randsburians…

Right on CA-190 and the first real “super-bloom” was evident.

Panamint Valley superbloom

Geraea canescens, commonly known as desert sunflower, hairy desert sunflower, or desert gold, is an annual plant in the family Asteraceae that was showing off.  Telescope Peak from the west, sporting some late spring snow, is still feeding Lake Manley on its eastern flank.

Death Valley was in the very pleasant mid-60’s when we arrived in Furnace Creek for a fuel stop.  Ill Mio Rosso likes expensive stuff.  Pete’s V-Strom uses the budget stuff.  

Yikes! The downside of supply and demand

We contemplated taking CA-190 to Death Valley Junction, then CA-127 south to Shoshone.  But, seeing an actual Lake Manley in Badwater was something worth the slightly added distance, heat, and traffic. 

Channeling Ansel Adams, Pete busied himself composing a photo of the Seldom Seen Lake Maley as we pealed away layers of insulation.

It’s sometimes hard to capture the scale of the vastness of terrain, especially that of Death Valley. Below is  Telescope Peak from the east at 11.049 feet taken from 282 feet below sea level at Badwater with Manley Lake in middle-ish ground.

The remains of Lake Manley’s source topping Telescope Peak in the Panamint Range

In no time we made our way on Badwater Rd to Jubilee Pass Rd, the continuation of CA-178 to CA-127 then south to The Shoshone Trailer RV Park.  I’ve noted that Shoshone is one of our favorite destinations.  The campground is perfect, the Crowbar has the best eats east of Trona and the Chas Brown Market can provide for all occasions including offering a geode for $2800.  If I had space for it on the Guzzi, well, maybe.  We settled on procuring beverages for the 3-R’s. I’ll ask my grandaughter how to take a selfie without looking at your trigger finger… The lens needs some attention.

Day 3, Shoshone to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

Good Morning Shoshone!
Calico Hills trail (Thanks Wiki…)
Aerial view of the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area near Las Vegas, Nevada, looking northeast (Thanks Wiki…)

A short 86 miles to our next destination, the Nevada version of a Red Rock Canyon, commenced by heading east on the Old Spanish Trail Hwy.  We soon learned there was no breakfast to be found until we reached Blue Diamond the nearest community serving the National Conservation Area.  The community includes a park, private pool, library, elementary school, event hall, church, and a mercantile/gas station. The mercantile (general store) was built in 1942 and originally sold household staples and sundries to residents who were mostly miners at the Blue Diamond Mine. The store has maintained its original external look. Walls inside the store showcase many of the town’s historical photos, courtesy of the Blue Diamond Historical Society, an all-volunteer organization.  

Cottonwood Station is a local scenic eatery in the historic village of Blue Diamond, minutes from Las Vegas. Near Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park, Blue Diamond attracts many hikers, mountain bike riders, road cyclists, and guys on motorcycles, like us.  There was, to our surprise, a large upscale Trek store next to the eatery.  Drop by the Cottonwood Station for a latte while waiting for the wrenchers to adjust your electronic shifters and hydraulic brakes I reckon…

The breakfast pizza was killer! Pete still searching for the eclipse…

From Blue Diamond it was just a few miles to our campsite in the Red Rock Canyon NCA.  After procuring a couple of whistle wetters at the Blue Diamond Market where the cashier shared that they would be closed by 5:00 because the owner didn’t want to pay her until 8:30, her preferred closing time, we strategized our dinner plans that would follow a tour of the Red Rock Canyon Loop.  But first, a couple of whistle-wetters.

Onward to the Campground… with Sheryl Crow

Didn’t make it to Las Vegas so we didn’t need to leave. But, life was so bright on a Tuesday afternoon…

Dropping off our gear and setting up our tents, we headed for the park.  We passed through an entrance station that boldly displayed a sign indicating reservations were required to enter the scenic loop through the canyon.  I noted to the attendant that we had a campground reservation to which she replied that wasn’t enough.  So, in my best, “You can’t possibly deny us entry into this fine geological feature of Nevada that would have to take second place to the okay geological feature of California that wasn’t even red if we cannot enter to determine its superiority” plea.   

She asked if I had a park pass.  I whipped out my National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Senior Pass and with that she said, “That’s two dollars.” and waved me through.  

Nearly speechless, I thanked her, pressed once forward on my shift lever and moved to allow Pete to pass through.  When he pulled up next to me he said that he had just paid $10 to get into the park.  I later consoled him by acknowledging that his additional $8 contribution to the National Conservation Area helped to support the tricked out bicycle repair station that was installed in one of the turnouts.  I assured him it was less than the latte back in Blue Diamond that he was supporting the people’s repair stand.

Still smarting having been fleeced out of $8 by the Feds
Ah yes, as advertised, Red Rocks

Always eager to make new acquaintances, I met Marlon Ma of Wu Tang Chinese Martial Arts Institute.  He approached us admiring Ill Mio Rosso Bela, which, by the way, gets noticed far more than Pete’s V-Strom these days.  When Pete first toured on his Triumph T120, my little Kawasexy Versys was hardly noticed despite its candy orange color scheme with matching panniers and drybags.  It seems that everyone we would meet would get all misty-eyed recalling their love affair with a Triumph from yesteryear.  No longer do we see misty-eyes but eyes of wonder and bewilderment as curiosity is voiced, “What’s a Moto Guzzi?”


Marlon was a sport bike guy who also owned a BMW and a Harley.  I wasn’t going to hold that against him after I requested and he obligingly shared his first stance and move when encountering a foe that was in every way, vintage Bruce Lee.  Marlon no longer lived in New York where he founded the Wu Tang Institute.  He now lives in Las Vegas where, coincidentally, the Wu-Tang Clan can be found in their historic, first-ever Las Vegas residency, at The Theater at Virgin Hotels Las Vega Rolling Stone Wu-Tang Residency.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Loop with Donald Fagin and Walter Becker

After moseying through the park loop, we made our way into Angel Park Ranch, a tony North Las Vegas zip code and found an Albertson’s to procure the evening victuals and, of course, the 3R beverages that would complement the grub as the relaxation, rehydration, and reflection hours awaiting.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area campground
Our evening stroll took us to new heights

Descending the hillside, we ambled through the campground coming upon what appeared to be a tent worthy of gale force winds.  Indeed, the gentleman who excitedly shared his tupik said that since he often camped in windy deserts, he found this Swedish Expedition Tent to be ideal.  It was designed to withstand winds up to 70 mph.  Though it looked somewhat complicated, he said it was a snap to set up.  He had a luxurious mattress that covered the entire floor!  No blustery tent flapping, rocky floor night’s sleep for this fellow.  I guess he could have slept in his van, but if you’ve got a Hilleberg Tara why would you?

A man, a tent, not just any tent, a Hilleberg Tara, and pride…

In the distance we could hear jet fighter aircraft, ostensibly from Nellis Air Force Base just a few miles to our east. As night fell, the maneuvering jets quieted having practiced their tactics, we kindled a fire and reflected as we relaxed and rehydrated viewing Jupiter and the waxing crescent moon.

On the western horizon, Jupiter and the waning crescent moon
To the east, the bright lights of Lost Wages

Good Morning Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area!

Day 4, Red Rock Canyon to Caliente, NV

A fellow motorcyclist sharing stories over coffee. That lens needs attention again..

We’re accustomed to the sound of military aircraft doing tactical maneuvers as the former Castle Air Force Base is located near our hometown in Merced.  The one-time Atwater Air Force installation was home to the U.S. Strategic Air Command, a part of America’s Cold War nuclear triangle.  For a time a fighter squadron occupied the base too.  With the base closure in 1995 the Strategic Air Command picked up and flew the coop.  Nowadays there is a commercial pilot training facility, the Castle Air Museum, UC Merced facilities, the U.S. Penitentiary Atwater, along with other portions leased to Google for development of self-driving technologies (known as Waymo), the County Animal Shelter, and a few local businesses including a brewery, The Tarmac.  The fighter jet scream was familiar.

We made our way east through North Las Vegas on NV-604, avoiding I-15, skirting the Las Vegas Motor Speedway and Nellis Air Force Base, home of the USAF Thunderbirds.   As noted, all the previous afternoon into the night and the following morning we heard the distant thunder of aircraft, most likely fighter jets, perhaps even the Thunderbirds, working on maneuvers, tactical or otherwise…  

Satisfying our machine’s thirst for fuel, we decided to save time and look to the Loves Fueling Center store to select a “delightful” Loves Fueling Center breakfast that we ended up eating in a dog park.  Rushing through a fruit cup and blueberry yogurt, we then headed up US-93, the Great Basin Highway, to our next destination the Kershaw-Ryan State Park near Caliente, Nevada.  

Back when considering the route, searching maps on the interwebs, taking those first steps on this journey of a thousand miles, I happened upon an Atlas Obscura Article about an interesting property next to the Western Elite Landfill that serves Las Vegas.  It’s known as RyanHenge.   This Stonehenge-inspired solar calendar stands alongside a landfill, in the middle of the Nevada desert.  Along with the replica of the ancient Neolithic henge monument in Wiltshire, England with a twist, can be found beautifully restored rail cars once used by Teddy Roosevelt, Annie Oakley, and Wild Bill Cody.  There are other vintage vehicles and an interesting collection of animals at the site, including a camel.  

Arriving at our campground at the Kershaw-Ryan State Park, yet another novel feature of this ride of the familiar and the unique satisfied, we were disappointed to find our reserved campsite was occupied by a monster motorhome of the lumbering mastodon sort.  We knocked about trying to find a ranger and searched for an alternative site checking to see if any of the reservation tags indicated a vacancy for the night.  Finally, we did see that the Ranger’s vehicle was at the entrance and so it was fitting to tell him the tale of our misfortune.  It all began with a faulty 404 error on the Nevada State Parks Reservation system…

Situated in a colorful canyon, with towering walls up to 700 feet high and a long, verdant valley in between, Kershaw-Ryan State Park is an oasis in the desert, a sharp contrast to the rugged landscape that surrounds it. Natural springs grow a garden of wild grapevines, white oaks, fruit trees and willows, and a spring-fed pond provides a refreshing children’s wading pool. It is not unusual to see wild horses, deer, and other wildlife come to the water.  (From the KRSP website that worked…)

Back in early March I was unable to make the reservation on-line due to a glitch on the Nevada State Parks Reservation website.  So I called the Parks HQ in Carson City making the reservation over the phone.  The delightful parks employee I spoke with assured me that she would send a confirmation email for the site, post haste.  Two days later no such email had appeared.  I checked the spam folder:  nada.  I called back to get a different parks employee at the Carson City office who said that her computer was down (hmmm) but that she would check and resend the reservation confirmation by way of email.  Just in case, I requested the site and confirmation numbers from her.  A few moments later, she gave me the site number, 10.  I never received that promised confirmation but my credit card had been charged. I figured that was good enough.

I explained all of this to the very helpful Ranger Evan who was on a Zoom meeting but happily left the call to check his records.  I had arranged for one night at the campground.  He shared his paper reservation roster that indicated that I had reserved a primitive campsite for 6 days.  What-what?! He thought that unusual since they never reserved primitive sites, they were on a first-come first camp basis and besides the fee charged was $60 instead of the $10 single night fee. I was actually charged $25. What-what?!

The remedy was that he handed us the reservation list and said that several sites were available for the night that were reserved for the next couple of nights. He wink-wink, nod-nodded us commenting on the frequency of glitches on the Nevada State Parks Reservation system.  He was of the opinion that a cheaper, less robust system was purchased by the State and that was the cause of all of the errors.  Alas, a campsite would be found, tents would be pitched, and we would head into Caliente for dinner and 3-R’s provisions.

Take your pick of any of the empty campsites…
Found one next to the donation based fire wood shack…

Just as we departed the entrance shack with roster in hand to select our homestead for the night, an interesting “conversation” piece rolled up, right out of the Black Rock Playa… When I stepped up to the pick-up towing this unique trailer, I inquired, “That’s quite the conversation piece ya have there,” to which a passenger replied, “So you wanna have a conversation?” with a British accent.

If there’s something that looks a little familiar about this aircraft converted into a Traveling Robot Orphanage by Montana Slim, well look no further…

Amelia Earhart

Amelia Earhart disappeared over the South Pacific in a Lockeed Model 10 Electra. Montana Slim’s plane is a Beechcraft Model 18. Though they look alike, there were only 149 Lockheed Model 10 Electras made primarily in the 1930’s. There were 9,000+ Beechcraft Model 18 manufactured from 1937 – 1970. (Thanks for the checked facts Wiki…)

Montana Slims Traveling Robot Orphanage makes a stop at the Amargosa Hotel and the Angels Ladies brothel just north of the famous hotel.

The plane that’s full of graffiti at the brothel is the same plane as Montana Slim’s a.k.a. Sean Gurrero, a Beechcraft C-18. Check out artist Sean Gurrero’s work:


Montana Slim, aka Sean Gurrero or @seangurreroart Instagram

After a fine dinner at The Side Track Restaurant in the rail town of Caliente, Nevada, a charming and remote ciudad pequeña in the Great Basin of Nevada, we took a quick tour of the burgh as we made our way back to our campsite.  We came upon a restored/updated motel Pete had stayed in some decades ago, formerly the Midway Motel, now known as Patty’s Motel.  We met the proprietor, Patty, who seemed quite cordial inviting us to check out the venue. 

We declined Patty’s invitation to stay as we were camping, however, this property is on the checklist for our next Nevada ramble!  Mixing a little of the new with the familiar, I say…

Another evening around the campfire, relaxing, reflecting, rehydrating and knowing our skies are safe! True to the labyrinth in RyanHenge, Life is Good!

Day 5, Caliente to Panamint Springs

A corvid friend greeting the new day…

Another gas station fuel-up at Dino’s Sinclair for the bike and a breakfast of cranberry juice and a Kind Bar for the pilot began the long 350 miles across what would be increasingly warm, from the mild spring weather we had thus far enjoyed, speedfest across Nevada. 

I would love to have a Sinclair Dino for my grandkids to play on in our yard, in our front yard, and for all the kids in the neighborhood...

This was to have been our longest day, riding some 350 miles from Caliente on the Extraterrestrial Highway, NV-375, through Rachel dropping by the Little A’Le’Inn for a whistle wetting ginger ale and to drop off the morning rental coffee.

A new mural at the A’Le’Inn

From Rachel it was on to Warm Springs on US-6, then to Tonopah where at a stop at the Beans and Brews Coffee House for a turkey croissant samie and RedBull light, we met a fellow on a well traveled DR 650 Suzuki who had made it from Ushuaia, the capital of Tierra del Fuego in Argentina to Tonopah on an epic ramble.  Except for shipping his bike from Brazil to San Diego skipping the Darién Gap, he was on a circuitous route back to his home in Salt Lake City after months on the road.  He was by all accounts road weary, but given his youthfulness and efficient looking rig, I’m sure the final miles to Salt Lake City would be a fly by.

From Tonopah it was down US-95 through Goldfield, past the shuttered Angel’s Ladies Brothel outside of Beatty.

The Interesting Case Of The Abandoned Aircraft And The Brothel

Angel’s Ladies was a 5,000-square-foot legal brothel situated on a 70-acre ranch which was located three miles north of Beatty, Nevada. It was known as Fran’s Star Ranch until it was renamed Angel’s Ladies in 1997 after being purchased by Mack and Angel Moore. It has been closed since August 2014.  Prior to the 1970s, the brothel had been known variously as Circle C Ranch and Vickie’s Star Ranch.  On May 28, 1977, an accident during a promotional stunt on the property resulted in the crash of a twin-engined light aircraft. The wreck has been located next to the brothel’s billboard ever since, and used as a spectacle to attract customers from the road. Mack Moore attempted to sell Angel’s Ladies in 2007, but ended up taking it over again two years later as a result of foreclosure. He subsequently sold the business again in 2010, this time for $1.8 million, and continued to run it as a leaseholder.  On 10 August 2014 he retired and closed the business. (Thanks Wiki…)

I digress.  Then it was west through Rhyolite (see Sisyphus and Associates Tour Rhyolite) and Daylight Pass Road into Death Valley with a quick stop in Stovepipe Wells to shed some insulation and enjoy a RedBull Light and some conversation with the proud parents of an Australian Cattle Dog, like my very own, SoBe. The trio was traveling in Death Valley from their home near Huntington Lake.  I’ve written about rambles through all of the places in this segment of our ramble in previous postings in my Much Ado About Nada website, Sisyphus and Associates if you’d care to check them out.  Maybe someday I can bring SoBe along on one of these rambles as a most welcomed associate…

It seems we would be just in time for the hottest part of the day when crossing Death Valley.  If it weren’t for the heavy ATGATT (All The Gear All The Time) the mercury nearing the 90 degree mark when we descended into Stovepipe Wells wouldn’t have seemed fifteen degrees warmer.  Visions of a cool beverage took the place of the distortion of light by alternate layers of hot and cool air as wishfulness overtook an optical illusion induced mirage…

That ain’t no mirage… We just got a jumpstart on the 3-R’s

Since this trip of a thousand miles was a blending of new roads to ramble with some of our favorite, greatest hits destinations, you can’t travel through Death Valley and not stop at Panamint Springs, just outside of the park on CA-190. 

Panamint Springs Resort is a small, rustic, western-style, resort located in beautiful Panamint Valley in Death Valley National Park that provides lodging, camping and RV services, a restaurant and bar, and a gas station with a well stocked general store.  (Thanks PSR…) 

Just as the refreshing beverage was beginning to sate our thirst, a young mom, with a newborn strapped to her by way of a front sling, walked up the steps to the Panamint Store. I had to acknowledge how wonderful it was to see the little one getting exposed to a desert adventure. Only a few weeks old, the proud mom said that she had already been to three national parks! About the same time the woman’s mother walked up and lo and behold the conversation revealed that I began my career teaching with her mother who was at the end of hers. Furthermore, the young mom was the daughter of a rancher I knew back home. So, Kevin Bacon, beat that… two degrees of separation.

Now, I imagine for most people, when the word “resort” is used to describe a setting, this might not be what their imagination congers.  I, on the other hand, could not imagine a more fitting word, defined as: a place to which people frequently or generally go for relaxation or pleasure, especially one providing rest and recreation facilities for vacationers.  It ain’t the Furnace Creek Inn, but for my money, it’s every bit as satisfying!  There could be fewer rocks in the campground, but alas, it’s the desert and what would the desert be without rocks?  

Relaxation, reflection, and rehydration on the menu at the Panamint Springs Resort
It never gets old…

No braying burros or noisy Boy Scouts or laughing religious retreaters from our last stay at the resort keeping us up throughout the night: Panamint Spring 2023

Day 6, Panamint Springs back Home

What was to be either a route to Kernville or Three Rivers adding another night to a sixth day’s travel, was now subject to a brewing spring downpour in the forecast for the following Saturday.  So we decided to ride some 360 miles after a longish 350 mile day across Nevada from Panamint Springs back to our homes in Merced on our sixth of seven planned days, Friday.  

Another glorious Panamint Range/Valley sunrise

We decided to ride like the wind (except it was into the wind) retracing our route back on CA-190 south to Trona for a last breakfast at Esparza’s.

I’ve written in the past about how Pete’s metabolism is remarkable. Pete had eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns, biscuits and gravy. My chili verde was superb! I gained weight on the trip. Pete lost weight…

There was no eclipse to regale this day but we did meet a local fellow who was a resident of Trona for some 20+ years.  When Pete asked what it was like living in Trona he replied that it was all right, that there wasn’t much to do, and he said that he had “caught cancer” and was in need of chemotherapy, which, not surprisingly, wasn’t available in Trona.  We assumed he worked in the mineral extraction business, but who knows, living in Trona on the shores of Searles Lake is perhaps carcinogenic itself.  We bid him blessings and the best of luck as we headed south to Ridgecrest.

From Trona  not far south on the way to Ridgecrest on CA-178 you’ll find an interesting geological feature, The Fish Rocks.

Passing through Ridgecrest, we hopped on to CA-14 south for a few miles before heading west CA-178 over Walker Pass, a reprisal of our first day’s route of this Red Rock Canyons Ramble.  Figuring the pass (el. 5,250 feet) would be a bit nippy, we insulated up.  It would be at Hart Lake Memorial Park just north of Bakersfield where we stopped for fuel and swallow a RedBull Light that we de-insulated as the valley temperatures were rising.

Saturday in the park, I think it was the Fourth of July… No, wait, it was Friday, April 12.  We were in a park though…

North through Oildale, east to Shafter, north on CA-43 through Myricks Corner, Wasco, Neufeld, Elmo, Pond, Kernell, Allensworth, Angiola, past the Tule River Viaduct, Corcoran, Hamblin/Hanford, zig-zagging by way of the GPS through Caruthers, Raisin City, Rolinda, Kerman, Ripperdan, Parkwood, to the Pilot Travel Center on Ave 181/2 where I pulled over for fuel, but was talked out of it by Pete who was tired of stop signs every couple of miles and traffic backed up due to road construction.  It had been slow going and was pretty warm, especially having to stop-and-go on several segments of the route.

I had just about enough fuel to make it home and so he compelled me to jump on CA-99, against my better judgment and where at the CA-152 and Hwy 99 exchange we were nearly run off the road by an indecisive cager who did a multi-lane change confused by the left lane exit to Los Banos and the through route north on CA-99, cutting us off and driving us to the shoulder of the road. 

At that point, Pete led us to the LeGrand exit where we once again zig-zagged merrily on county roads with little traffic the rest of the way to the security and comfort of our family, pets, and homes.

Epilogue

I began this post by acknowledging that a journey of a thousand (and 212±) miles starts with the first step.  For me the first step is in imagining how I might recreate the cheer and satisfaction achieved on all of the other rides I’ve chronicled while recognizing that the balance of the familiar with the unknown and how it brings the greatest ROI.  I guess that as a geezer, I enjoy seasoning travel with a sprinkle of sentiment being careful not to overdo it by marinating in nostalgia. 

At the same time, I reckon I’ve lost the desire to just hang it all out there and come what may, ride with abandon as I know it’s tougher to assemble a coherent narrative without taking the time to immerse in the adventure.  Since on most of these rides, despite being retired and relatively free to ramble, the calendar no longer waits for procrastination or indecision.  Hence, we return to the familiar to glean from the present what we overlooked in the past.  As for the unknown, there’s always satisfying our curiosity with the novel, offbeat, unique, or strange.  Take for instance RyanHenge or Montana Slim’s Traveling Robot Orphanage, not something you come across on a given day.  

And as the calendar waits for no hesitation to plan the next moto adventure or my increasingly fidgety travel lust only marginally deteriorating with the specter of another night in a rocky, blustery, and frigid campsite or a smoke filled, sweltering, torturous lonesome highway, I can’t wait to begin planning the next, and perhaps, most epic ride.  I think the next one will head north as spring meanders toward summer and where a volcano or two, some redwoods and rivers, and maybe a “popularly priced” motel populates the route.  Maybe the forest floor duff will erase the memory of a stoney desert floor and we’ll hybridize our accommodations on this next foray.  

As always, stay tuned for Sisyphus and his Associates next episode.   Hey, just drop a line if you’d like to join us…  

Cheers!